The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build

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  #391  
Old 05-24-2013, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 77nomad
The pin goes to the bottom for manual and on top for power. The bottom is also for more leverage.
Are you referring to the rod to pedal attachment? The upper hole is the one that would give you more leverage, the bottom would give more travel.
 
  #392  
Old 05-25-2013, 09:30 AM
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Just the opposite Damon. Bottom for power booster, and top for manual.
 
  #393  
Old 05-25-2013, 09:40 AM
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That's really why I wanted to try and stick with a 1 1/8" MC, is that's what I took off the Camaro. I'm not doing anything special with the brakes at this stage. Most of the brakes had just been replaced when I got the car. Stock replacement is what I was after. However, the booster I bought accepts 1" bore, but will it accept 1 1/8 also? That's the info I'm after right now.
 
  #394  
Old 05-26-2013, 04:27 PM
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I stand corrected.
 
  #395  
Old 05-26-2013, 11:39 PM
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Another random question - I'm putting in the plug fittings for the extra water ports on the intake manifold and the temp gauge sending unit into the head and can't get any of them to go more than half way in. Is there a trick to getting these things in further (like closer to flush?) They ALL want to bind up after a few turns. Thought about using a little propane torch to heat up the manifold threads a bit and trying that way? It's a trivial issue but I don't like the look of these plugs sticking so far out of the intake. I'm having a similar issue with the hose barb fitting on the fuel pump, can't get them to go all the way in.
 
  #396  
Old 05-27-2013, 01:25 AM
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The water and fuel threads are NPT (National Pipe Thread). They're a tapered thread, not a straight thread like a conventional bolt or nut, with a thread pitch that's incompatible with conventional threads. When they get tight, that's as far in as they go, so don't force them. What kind of plugs are you using, the type you grab with a box end wrench? If so, allen wrench type plugs would look better. And depending on how much extra meat you have to play with, you might be able to grind some of the top off before you install it. Don't forget the plumbing thread sealant, teflon tape or pipe dope.
 
  #397  
Old 05-27-2013, 02:54 AM
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I'm using chrome 1/2" NPT internal allen head type plugs in the intake. I was thinking they should be able to thread in closer to being flush. I know the fittings all go in far enough to work but all stick out with probably close to half the threads still showing. The chrome fittings for the fuel pump won't go in very far either. I won't force 'em but might try a little heat to see if that helps.
 
  #398  
Old 05-27-2013, 10:38 AM
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I wouldn't use heat, or anything to try and force them in farther. It will just cause leaks when they cool. No way to teflon tape, or dope the threads and then heat to install. Too tight and you may end up cracking the aluminum they thread into.
If it's really bugging you, you can get a 1/2" pipe tap and tap the hole slightly deeper until the plug seats deeper.
 
  #399  
Old 05-27-2013, 12:47 PM
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I wouldn't be surprised if the extra layer of chrome plating is contributing to the tighter fit/doesn't go in far/depth problem.
Stainless steel fittings instead might do the trick.
 
  #400  
Old 05-27-2013, 12:55 PM
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I realize too much heat would not work well with thread sealant so I wasn't going to get crazy with the heat. Might try the oven method for a few minutes, can't hurt. I'm working on the engine this afternoon, want to get most everything tightened/torqued down so it's done. All I need is a 90 3/4 hose barb to 1/2" NPT fitting for the heater hose in the intake and it's all set. I'll show a pic or two of what I've been talking about. Either way, the fittings will be outta the way today.
 


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