The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build

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  #491  
Old 07-13-2013, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 78 on my plate
Next time I'm out there I'll take a pic and show you what I mean. Not sure how else to explain it but it's not a big problem. Not sure how else I could install it anyway. The fit is snug, not tight.

I was thinking about mounting the trans cooler on the pass side frame rail. Haven't bought the cooler yet so not sure how that'll work out. I'd like to not have to run the hoses all the way up front if I can avoid it.
Just be sure it's mounted out of harms way, but able to get fresh air. Not near the front tires where a rock could be picked up and tossed into it, or where it could be struck by anything you run over on the road, tossed up by another vehicle.
 
  #492  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:04 AM
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Yes sir, I'll need to get this cooler here before really deciding where to mount it. Just pre-planning a bit. I'm just more averse to having anything else mounted on the inner fenders and would rather not run the length of hoses all the way up in front of the radiator if I can help it. I've got far more pressing issues at hand currently anyway, just pre-planning like I mentioned. Appreciate your feedback. Will I need to block the ports on the radiator?

Speaking of issues, I've got 2 bolts on the pass side spring perch with broken clips. They're the only thing keeping the leafs/diff from being removed. Pretty sure they're going to need to be cut out. Really stupid mistake on my part, didn't realize the bolts came loose so easily with a ratchet. I of course busted out the impact and tried to zip them out. Why not right? That's what impact's are for! Ironically, the only two bolts that I didn't use a ratchet on are the broken ones. So anyway, one is literally just hanging there (might be 2-3 threads left) and the other clip broke before backing out at all. That's first on the plate today, fingers crossed I can get them removed without spending the bulk of the day doing it. There is no way I can remove the leaf from the perch as the curb-ridden rocker panel now blocks the bolt going through the spring.
 
  #493  
Old 07-14-2013, 02:44 PM
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Here's how I would plumb a cooler. First I would have to figure out the supply and return. Then the supply would go into the rad. and the rad out would go to the in on the cooler. The out of the cooler would go back to the trans. The stock lines would be modified slightly. Then mount the cooler in front of the radiator. Not much extra hose. This will "pre" cool it before hitting the cooler.
 
  #494  
Old 07-14-2013, 05:35 PM
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If you eliminate the radiator, then the holes can be left open. Plugs don't need to go in unless you just want to clean up the holes. I've seen guys use simple black plastic push plugs to cover the holes.
"Pre cooling" by going through the radiator cooler wont happen. If the radiator is at 180-195 degrees, it will bring the trans temp up to that, or down to that temp. If it's not going through the radiator, then it's already ahead by not having 180-195 degrees added to the mix.
If you've ever looked at the "cooler" inside a radiator tank, you'd laugh. It's miniscule, and does very little. The trans temps can get up to twice what engine water temp is easily, and adding that to your radiator could raise engine temp more than lower trans temp. That's why most manufacturers have gone to aux. trans coolers on vehicles today.
The only pro I've ever heard for having a cooler run through the radiator was in extremely cold environments where a daily driven car gets a little warmth before tha trans gets up to operating temperature. But even that is so minor, due to the trans warming up quicker than the engine when driving.
 
  #495  
Old 07-14-2013, 09:58 PM
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I had watched a few videos showing the temps for each routing of cooler lines and that's what prompted me to ask originally. I at first was going to route them the way Damon suggested. After seeing how the radiator raised the temps I wanted to just use the auxiliary cooler. There was much debate about different climates and the routing of cooler lines but knowing that it will only be warm/hot temps when I drive this car I was more worried about too hot, not too cold. I've got the deep pan and would go with the bigger of the dual pass coolers but really wanted to ask and see what others were doing. All new stuff to me so I have no "informed" opinion on the subject.

Had good success today getting the heads cut off of the two j-clip bolts on the front spring perch. Took about 20 min. and I realized just how lucky I was that it was the two forward bolts and not the one that's tucked up there. Got everything dropped out and now it's back to the wire wheeling again. Ugh. If anyone remembers the mess I went through a while back when I had the rear end gears swapped and the Detroit Truetrac installed, I got another glimpse of it again today. I had to take the car back twice because of the noise from the diff. Still not so sure it was done correctly as it's only been driven a little bit this past summer. Not real worried about the leaking diff cover gasket, that's to be expected as it was removed twice after the work was done to "fix." Already have a new, good gasket for that but it looks also like the pinion seal is leaking. Not a tough fix but jeez, what did I pay for again? Throw in the fact that they ripped off my stainless bolts for the cover and I wanted to take a trip up there today with a bowie knife made from my leaf springs! Savages. Progress made so it was a good day.
 
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  #496  
Old 07-14-2013, 10:23 PM
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Sounds like one step forward, three steps back. That's about normal!
 
  #497  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:46 PM
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And when it's all done you'll be back under there a couple times to double check all the bolts! I always find loose bolts, even after going over them twice. Seems as things settle and work into place they need another tightening. I use blue Loctite on things once I'm sure they're together for the last time after mockup.
 
  #498  
Old 07-15-2013, 12:58 AM
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Honestly I don't think I'd know what to do if it wasn't that way! I've been making a checklist as I go of areas to check and tighten/re-tighten. Especially that front end with no weight on it. Didn't bother torqueing the control arms until the engine gets installed.

Can't believe I need to go jack stand shopping again tomorrow. 3rd set this time, that'll equal out the floor jack number now. One thing I am glad that I broke down and bought is those wheel dolly's. The rear end dropped right down into them and now I can roll the whole unit outside to get busy on it. Didn't even think I would use them until this thing was put back together. They were bought for winter time when I want to move the car over in the garage to have more space to work on it.
 
  #499  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:36 AM
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What's happening to your jack stands? Are they disappearing, or just have so much going on that you don't have enough for all of it?
 
  #500  
Old 07-15-2013, 09:15 AM
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The latter I suppose. The currently owned stands are being utilized to hold the shell. I'm in need of a couple more to hold the rear end while I work on it. Guess I shouldn't use the word "need" as there are other ways to do it. Either way, still have to visit one of two stores that are most always right next to each other in any community. Probably could get away with using a couple cinder blocks for either task at the present time. That actually might be a good way to get this shell lifted up higher? Only problem there is cleaning around where the surface comes into contact with them. Might actually be a few bucks cheaper too? Guess I'll decide when I get up to town. I'm to the point where I despise going into either store anymore (one more than the other.) Need to get dog food and some people food also so with my luck I'll end up in both stores....
 


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