The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build

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  #401  
Old 05-27-2013, 03:11 PM
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It comes down to how far the hole was tapped really. Some run deeper and the plug will go under the cast surface. These sometimes can be a real pain to seal. Yours may be shallow due to Chinese tolerances but if it seals it seals. Remember plugs just have to not leak so dont tighten any more than that or it will be hell getting out. You may be able to get it to sink deeper by running a tap down the hole. I wouldnt heat it at all. It will expand and go deeper for sure. But it will cool and and shrink tight as hell.
 
  #402  
Old 05-27-2013, 08:59 PM
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Thought about a tap first but didn't want all the shavings to fall into the intake so I didn't do that. However, I got 'em in there where I wanted 'em. I heated the plugs in the oven for a while and then threaded them all in (almost flush) and then removed them to let cool. Worked like a charm. Just needed to get them to thread all the way in once and after they cooled, went in just fine with sealer. Done deal. Realized I'm still missing a plug for the other head that doesn't have the temp sender in it. That hole must be 3/8 because it's smaller than the other head where the sender is. Not sure why it would be smaller but I'll get a plug for that when I order the 90 for the heater hose. Everything else is done and the engine is pretty much ready to drop in.
 
  #403  
Old 05-28-2013, 11:28 AM
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Cool beans. I am almost ready to drop the stroker in my truck as well. Just need to put it back together. I wanted to check a few things while it was apart. I also found a ring that wasnt moving freely. Really bummed the motor was way dirtier than I thought. I thought I was being clean while assembling the last time. This time it will be surgical clean. The cool thing was my intake valves werent as sunken as I remembered and the wear pattern on the tip was dead on. Funny thing was the heads have been shaved 3X and the block is decked. After measuring for push rods I needed the exact length Lunati sent me with the cam kit. I would have used them if they were one piece.

Good luck, cant wait to hear a video of that thing twisting to the moon.
 
  #404  
Old 05-28-2013, 12:48 PM
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"I am almost ready to drop the stroker in my truck as well. Just need to put it back together." LOL! I know what you're saying there, just read kinda funny! You could probably assemble your engine in a fraction of the time it took me to do mine. One thing I did confirm after tearing all the accessories back off yesterday is that the Gilmer pulleys do line up perfectly! After I got all the plugs in (had to remove the alternator to get to one of them) I re-installed the pulleys and alt. bracket and alt. and torqued everything down. I took my old PS pump with the new bracket I got and tried it out. I'll need a new belt that's about 2" shorter than the one I have but even the PS belt is perfectly lined up. Phew. I was SO DUE for a lucky break putting this thing together.

Are you using a hydraulic cam setup Damon? Just curious. I'm running a Lunati setup in mine also with one of their timing gear drive sets. Gotta love those Lunati sticks! Wish they woulda sent me a dang sticker for my toolbox though!

I had today all set to be the day I get the frame finished (been waiting on the pressure washer parts to blast the residual grease off) and of course it's gotta be cold and rainy. Fine for the washing part, but not so good for the painting part.

Got another issue gnawing at me that I'd like some insight/advice on - Fuel fittings. First question - Hose barb fittings on the mechanical pump, why or why not?

Second question - adjustable regulator, what kind of fittings would be best to use with that? 1/4" NPT on the pump (using 3/8 line) and 3/8" NPT on the regulator. Any info/links to some specific info would be immensely appreciated. Too many fittings to choose from! Thanks in advance.
 
  #405  
Old 05-28-2013, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 78 on my plate
Got another issue gnawing at me that I'd like some insight/advice on - Fuel fittings. First question - Hose barb fittings on the mechanical pump, why or why not?
You must be referring to the rubber hose connecting the steel line on the frame to the pump. No problem at all with a barb fitting on the pump.
The pump to carb line wants to be run in steel/hard line, NOT rubber, so you won't be using a barb fitting on the pump outlet anyway. Of course, this is only if fire safety is important to you.
 
  #406  
Old 05-28-2013, 01:31 PM
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Chuck, I have one of the Edelbrock carb plumbing kits with the steel line at the carb/banjo bolt but it uses braided line from the pump to the steel carb feed line. I understand what you're saying here I think, but many many people run the same setup I got from the pump to the carb with the braided line. I wasn't planning on running rubber line anyway, have all stainless braided/Teflon lined hose from the tank to the carb. Just wanted to check if it was ok to use a barb fitting with the braided line from the pump? Ironically, the setup that I just took out of the Camaro had about a 3" piece of steel line in between rubber line from the pump and the rubber line to the carb. Not the way of choice, but no fires! Basically, what I want to know is if I can use hose barb fittings on the pump and regulator or will I need "better" fittings. I fully understand that Earls, Aeroquip etc. fittings would be ideal but also quite costly if not mandatory. I want safety of course, that's why I'm asking sir.
 
  #407  
Old 05-28-2013, 02:17 PM
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Ok, I didn't know you were using braided, that falls under the "hard line" category as far as I'm concerned. Just plain ol rubber fuel hose from the pump to the carb is what I was referring to avoiding. For the ends though, I would want to use AN fittings. Summit brand fittings are between 4-5 bucks a piece. And you would need an AN to NPT adapter fitting to go on the pump.
 
  #408  
Old 05-28-2013, 07:31 PM
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I whole heartedly agree on the AN fittings. with all the work you've done to make the motor shine and pop using even the fake AN/worm clamps would take away from that. Not to mention that they seal much better and are much safer. Motor is looking great!
 
  #409  
Old 05-29-2013, 04:28 AM
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Understood gentlemen, thanks. One of those times where I pretty much knew the answer but was hoping to hear something different. Not going to cut corners with the flammable stuff. Just need to figure out what all I will need. Strange phenomenon happening here, the more parts I try to get and cross off the list, the bigger the list gets?? Wonder if Rod Serling ever built a hotrod? Thanks for the replys.

Neil! Happy Spring sir! Appreciate the comment, how's things going with you and your project?
 
  #410  
Old 05-29-2013, 10:57 AM
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You're at that point when things begin to add up, and all those little fittings will get spendy! I just plumbed the carbs and fuel system on my Falcon gasser, and walked out of the dealer with all the parts in one handful, and a major hole in my wallet! It isn't cheap to do it right, and look good too!
 


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