Honestly, this pic was taken right after I put them on the very first time. No spacing needed at all. I do think I will get a couple 1/4" spacers for the crank pulley just to make all 3 perfectly centered. Couldn't believe it actually as I had read that almost everyone had to do some kind of spacing. Then again, this is pre-p.s. pump install also so we'll see.

I hope you're right Damon! LOL

If you're so compelled '69, I got mine on Ebay from Procomp Overstock "used" and I gave an offer price of $65 (with shipping) and they accepted it! If you check it out, you'll see on the ad where they used the pulley's for engine mock up and the only thing "used" about them was a couple of washer marks on the inside of the crank pulley. They're anywhere from $110 - $150 new I noticed. Money well spent IMO. I love the look of them for sure!

 

Ah yes, the impact, thanks '69. So it won't spin the blades doing it that way?

 

Yeah I do too. Those pulleys would be a nice touch with the tunnel ram and bird-catcher scoop.

 

Hasn't been a problem for me. The impact hits it too fast, might slip a little at first but it catches. Hope yours doesn't call me a liar, but the impact always worked well for me.

 

Better pic quality. Redundant yes, sue me, I'm excited!

Proud to report that at least the guy in TN did one thing right and got the intake matched to the runners in the heads really well. He ganked my 1205 intake gasket however and I didn't realize it until I went to install it. Gotta love buying 3 sets (1206 first due to inaccurate guidance) on gaskets to mount 1 intake... Live and learn.

Anybody have an old mechanical oil pressure gauge and some nylon tubing they don't need anymore? Want to check pressure when I get everything buttoned up and I already installed my new gauge in the dash! Oops.

 

I wouldn't worry about that crank pulley! It's not sitting off the edge like mine was, so as long as it's somewhere on the pulley, it would only create another possible issue if you added spacers.
I tried tightening mine using an allen wrench, and then an open end wrench tucked into that recessed pulley, but in the end I did like Chuck said, and used my impact. I was concerned about possible slippage, so I put loctite blue on the threads, and the mating surfaces. Might be overkill, but I was suspect of it without a keyway.
Pretty unusual that everything bolted right up on your setup. It looks like a perfect fit. Surprising the alt. pulley didn't need to be modified and fit right on also.

 

Anyone with knowledge of brake booster and master cylinder setups willing to answer a question for me? Out of sheer curiosity, I'm wondering about fitment of different sized MC bores onto the booster. It certainly appears that the stock bore size of the Camaro (with power brakes) was 1 1/8". The manual setups used a 1" bore. My new booster that I bought claims to accept MC's with a 1" bore, yet the opening is almost 1 3/4". My question is regarding the use of a 1 1/8" MC and if it will work. It looks to me like it would still fit fine and what I'm shooting for is a bit of a cost savings on not having to buy a chrome MC to use with the chrome booster I already have. Haven't found any 1" bore MC's except the chrome one's that are triple the price of a oe replacement one. If I was to look on a site like Rockauto, the only 1" MC I can find is for manual brakes. That's why I ask. Just uncertain if different sized MC's can be used or if it's mandatory to use the size that is claimed to be needed. First time messing with this part of a brake system on the Camaro.

 

No problem swapping the manual and power boosters. When I converted my manual master for my '71 I simply unbolted it from the firewall, and bolted a power booster behind it, then changed the position of the rod on the brake pedal. Worked great.

 

Good info Vall, thanks very much sir. That might be the route I'll end up taking if I have to use a 1" bore MC. What I'd really like to do however, is use a 1 1/8" bore if it would still work on the booster. Fitment-wise, it really looks like there's a lot of room to work on the booster if I went 1/8" bigger than what is supposed to be used. That's really what I'd like to figure out. Trying not to run into trouble with the goal of saving money and using a plain jane MC and painting to match the firewall, block etc. Glad to know I could use a MC for a manual setup if need be. Ultimately, spending the extra money on the chrome MC (not for the chrome but because it's aluminum) might be what I end up doing though. Just trying for some clarity here.

 

A 1" bore is a manual size bore because the surface area you have to apply pressure to is less. The 1 1/8" is obviously larger and the power assist helps overcome it. The pin goes to the bottom for manual and on top for power. The bottom is also for more leverage. I read in depth about this because Wilwood offers 7/8",1", 1 1/8" so I was confused. 1 1/8" was recommended for a stock replacement.