That's exactly my thinking on the gauge at the carb. I thought it better to see what the pressure is right where it goes into the carb, especially since there's another filter between the regulator and carb. I will also need to either get a new throttle cable bracket (mines chrome but a cheap, flimsy p.o.s.) or make/buy a bracket for the return spring. I searched until I felt ignorant looking for a place to hook the spring onto the throttle bracket and there really isn't a good place without binding something up. Not a huge concern, just another "odds n ends" issue to finish up at some point.


Heading out to get sanding on the core support here soon, set my alarm for earlier and that didn't work out too well for me today. Got a nice breeze that I can get upwind from my work and not have to wear a mask and fill with sweat while working outside in the sun! It's the little things...

 

I am stuck on fenders. I suck at it. I had read and read but they just arent up to par. I'm ready to pay someone to do the body on this thing! I have seen some of the cool looking throttle brackets on ebay cheap. They are way more through Summit. By that I mean they have a spring mount and a cable mount. This is my plan.


Holley 4150 4160 Polished Aluminum Throttle Cable Carb Bracket Carburetor 350 | eBay

All this then I realize you have an Eddy.

 

That's funny Damon! I was going to ask about better brackets for my carb as I knew there were good ones for Holley's but never see anything for Edelbrock carbs. I figured you knew I had an Edelbrock already so if there was anything out there you would point me in that direction. My current bracket assembly is extremely flimsy and I really don't trust it to stay in place with only those tiny screws and nylon lock nuts holding everything together. Think I paid between $5 and $10 for my throttle bracket. So, bottom line, do they make a nice, thick, sturdy bracket assembly for my carb? I haven't seen any as of yet.


Man, I'm gettin' close on this core support. What a gigantic PITA trying to get the wire wheel in between all those curves, tucks and overlapping pieces! Almost forgot how much I dig slingin' a grinder around, and picking the stray wires out of my legs and arms. Should have the support itself ready tomorrow and hopefully I can get the other pieces finished up as well.

 

You can hook the spring on the bottom side of the carburetor arm, and then pull the spring back to attach to the bracket. Doesn't have to be on the top and go forward.

 

The spring in the pic is just hanging off the top hole on the carb bracket for safe-keeping. The ONLY place I could hook the spring (at present) is off the bottom of the carb arm however, there's no place to hook the spring on the throttle bracket without either contorting the spring (many attempts) or over stretching it. That's my issue. I'll have extra aluminum left over after making the bracket for the regulator. Should be able to make something similar to the return spring brackets that mount off the intake. No big deal, easy fix, just a little more polishing!


Well, unless this rain lets up, won't be much sanding going on today after all. Should've known to keep my mouth (fingers) shut yesterday when I was plotting my course of action for today! Forgot about a Dentist appt. for a cleaning this afternoon anyway, guess today might be the day to work on the Cadi since the new axle shafts will be here this afternoon also. I want that darn core support DONE in the worst way though!!


Question (again, surprise surprise) - Shifter cable routing. I'm pretty sure I've got the cable routed correctly (under the cross member) as if I do it above, it's far too long. However, the issue that I'm having at present is getting all the way down into first gear. The trans bracket that adjusts to correct the linkage is as far back as it'll go. I've read somewhere that in order to remedy this, a B&M cable needs to be bought, is there truth to this? The cable I have is a brand new oem replacement cable. The shifter instrux don't say anything about a new cable, as a matter of fact, it is supposed to work with the stock one! Think I'd rather enlarge the opening on the trans bracket 1/16" with the dremel before buying another cable, let alone another part from B&M. It's so close to working properly. Any other suggestions?

 

Not sure on the trans cable. But on the spring, why not just buy a longer one, or add a tab off the bracket to make an extended mounting point?

 

Tab off the bracket or tab off the intake, same end result. I'm going with a tab off the intake as this cable bracket is already flimsy enough before I add another tab and extend it out even further. Actually, I believe I might be in luck and not have to make said bracket/tab. Can't confirm just yet but a shiny new chrome return spring bracket was going to get picked up for me today by another member while he was visiting his local parts store. Maybe he can confirm the acquisition when he visits the forums next time? Either way I'm really not concerned about getting the return spring where it needs to be, it's just a little bit further down the list of things to finish up on the Camaro.

 

Yeah I got it! It was hard as heck using five dollars of my Autozone rewards for it, lol. Not really! I did read later that the bracket I posted works with both style carbs.

I dont understand why the B+M didnt come with a cable and trans pan bracket? Even my cheapo Z Gate in the pick up came with their good cable. They have two one that comes with the cheeeeap floor shifter in my truck when I bought it and the red ones that are in every kit I've installed. I replaced the whole shifter due to the cheap ones puny cable. I assumed when you were talking about adjustment issues, you had all B+M parts. At any rate it should come out forward and loop backward while still on top of the trans and then come back to the pan.

 

I've never heard of any B&M shifter not coming with their cable? At least I've never purchased one that didn't come with a cable.

 

If you look at the '73-'81 Camaro Console Quicksilver shifter, you'll see one without a cable. They're designed to work with the stock cable, in the stock location, with the stock mounting hardware.


Thanks for picking that up for me Damon, appreciate it sir.