I put a mini starter on the 327 in the Austin, and never had luck with it from the get go. Just a total POS, and headache right off. I tried everything, and at times shimming got it working, but it never sounded good, and eventually cost me a flexplate. When I replaced the flexplate I also went to a new full sized starter, and never had an ounce of trouble with it.

 

Ya know mine doesnt sound bad at all with one shim. The one on the 6.0 in the Ram sounds like a high dollar starter but is also the same as the one in the pic. I wont buy a fancy one anymore for sure unless I have a 13:1 race motor again that wont roll over.

 

Question - I'm trying to find a good place to mount the fuel regulator and finish up the plumbing from pump to carb. The best place/only place I can find aside from mounting it way up on the inner fender (not what I want to do) is off the accessory holes on the head above the pump. I realize there's a fair amount of heat there and was trying out a spacer and bracket to bring the regulator up out and away from the head a few inches. Couldn't imagine much heat being transferred up through the spacer and bracket to the regulator when it's only held on by 2 screws to the bracket. Can't really show pics at present as I'm in the process of making a bracket that would work. Is this a bad idea with respect to heat transfer? Again, I'm bringing the regulator AWAY from the head and not mounting it TO the head. I'm trying my darndest to keep things off the inner fenders (still have to find a place for the ignition box as a result of this) and unless I relocate the regulator completely, there's not a whole lot of other options. Appreciate any insight of course, thanks in advance.

 

Should be OK. We put the Dodge's in the back which is under the cowl and it gets warm but not much choice. There are brackets that bolt to the carb base. If your into fabing one of those its not too bad. Glad your getting close! I have black doors! So proud.

 

Yessir I'm gettin' there! Back home now for a whole week straight so I plan on capitalizing on the block of time. Today I got the core support all broken down so I can sand all the individual parts better. Got almost half of the actual support done this afternoon, plus the one inner fender is ready for paint. That's really what's holding me up from getting the rest of the things installed/mounted. I did get some longer ARP starter bolts, just have to swap them out with the first set. Found some new (chrome lol!) torque converter inspection cover bolts too finally! Still need to mess with the shifter cable/linkage a bit so I can get 1st gear to engage better, it's gotta be close there. Pump to carb plumbing is really all that's left to do engine-wise aside from radiator hoses, once the radiator itself goes in. Found a piece today that should work well as a bracket for the regulator too. It's odds n ends after I get the core support and inner fenders done. Don't get me wrong though, still have serious time to invest yet. This week will be nice though, have to take a day and change out a bunch of front end stuff on the Cadi. Got new axle shafts, wheel hubs, outer tie rods and struts to get done. I need to have the core support and inner fenders painted and either ready to install, or installed by the end of the week. Hoping I can get them on there with a day left over to get the radiator and hoses on there and finish mounting the trans cooler. I'll be REAL close after that. Leaving the wiring all for last since there's so much to do.


Glad to hear you're making some progress too Damon!

 

I've put them all sorts of places, but always where they're easy to access. They do occasionally need readjusting over time. I have the reg. on the Austin on the frame, near the engine bay. The Falcon's BBC reg. is mounted on a hand made aluminum bracket above the intake, and right up front. Both easy to access, and easy to see the pressure gauge mounted on the outlet port.
I just had to reset the pressure on the Falcon a couple days ago. Not sure if it's the change in ambient temp, or what? It was set at 5 lbs., and when I looked at it the other day it was reading 8.5 lbs. while running! Reset it to 5.5 lbs., and I'll check it again in a few days to see how it's doing. I always let things get fully warmed up before resetting the pressure. Temp does affect them, or the gauge; not sure which.

 

Val, you wanna hear FP story? I am working daily on the Dodge. The ls has a professional Products EFI on it first. The PSI would consatntly change from 45 to 60 to 35ish. So I couldnt tune that. Plus the injectors were too small for power output so he went carb. Same pump and reg but now set down to 5 psi. This should work with a return so we tried. No joy! I have seen zero psi on it then 4 then 6 then 2. At 6 it starts to pump out the vent tubes. The floats were high in the new carb out of the box but the AFR was dead on so I left them. Finally I gave in an adjusted so I could see fuel slosh in the windows at 4 psi. Then the AFR was rich so I leaned it back with the screws. which were dead on at first. Now it smells rich but AFR is 13-13.5. But it starts better now. SO now I have the psi were I think I want it and under boost it should rise 1:1 and on one pass it is flawless and the next its popping. Grrrr!! In the end? New pump and regulator will be here Monday, lol. I'm at the point were I dont get in the truck without a 1/4" allen wrench.

Tim, it sounds like I need to pack a bag! I'm desperate to get away for a bit too. Down to one vehicle though. I have the reg mounted inside the frame rail on the truck. I can show you if you like. There is real estate on the Camaro I think? I will say mount it anywhere but the firewall. My car has the PTFB GBars to mount it to. I used a conduit mounting clamp to the Holley bracket and it was perfect. With the mechanical pump right on the head will be good too. Maybe come up between the water pump and block to the thermostat area? The feed on the Eddy is on the DS or PS??

 

My tunnel ram on the BBC has a few extra holes for brackets, so I just bent up some aluminum and bolted it to one of those holes. Then tossed the factory Holley bracket, and bolted the regulator to the new bracket I built. It points my gauge straight forward, and adj. allen to the driver's side, so easy to access.
You can see it right above the upper radiator hose in this picture:

 

I'm going to try and do it the way I mentioned first, just need to do a little bending/shaping for this bracket but it should work ok I think. There are places to mount it on the inside frame rail but that would put it too close or under the battery/tray and make it difficult to get at to adjust. Really isn't anywhere off the intake to mount a bracket. Heck, I literally can't find a place to hook the carb return spring! Plus, like you mentioned the way I'm talking about would put the regulator right above the pump and I could run up to the carb between the alternator, w.p. and block perfectly to the feed line on the carb. Would you guys suggest having the pressure gauge off the regulator or on the hard feed line at the carb? I currently have my gauge on the hard feed line. Does it matter?

 

I like mine right at the carb. That way you know what the carb is seeing not what the regulator up stream is seeing. Add a 90* or two after it and your surely not going to have the same pressure. So your good! The spring, a cheap spring and bracket from the Zone works for me, it goes under an intake bolt. Your throttle cable bracket might have a spot too.