Yeah, these guys pretty much said it all. If you're going to do an amp and deck install, might as well upgrade your speakers. Especially if they are stock. Stock speakers typically use foam and paper. Which will blow out their cheap 90's guts if they haven't already if you put a more powerful aftermarket deck in. Just make sure you're amp power and sub power are matched. Even if the amp is a little more for the sub it should be ok, just don't be too hard on it.

And when you wire up the sub, ALWAYS check your resistance with a voltmeter. Make sure that sucker is rated at the right resistance (I.E. 2 ohms, 4 ohms, 8, etc.). Also make sure you're amp is 2 ohm stable. Reason being, if your sub is 2 ohms, you're amp will cut out and it'll give you a head ache.

Also, Chaotic is right, 4 gauge should be a good match up. Might be a little big depending on what RMS you're amp is, but hey, it won't blow you're car up.

Pro tip: Secure your ground with at least three self tap screws, and that you're screwing on a bracket or something that's raised on the floor. Reason: Gas tanks are closer than you think.

Also, it helps to connect all the wires to your amp first, then tape them up with 3M electrical tape to keep them nice and neatly together, then run the wire to you're deck, then to your subs. And zip tie everything up under neath the dash.

And when you run your power wire, try to go through a rubber grommet. It'll protect the wire and keep a good seal. I found it easier personally to run the power wire from the passenger side. The battery is there and there should be a rubber grommet way down on the fire wall. Take a long pointed antenna rod and puncture through that to get the wire through.

Phew, sorry, probably typed more than I should. Hope everything works out brochacho.

 

You should be able to make the cutout in the box bigger to allow for 12" subs but make sure the subs you buy are close to the the cubic ft rating as your box. If your box is too big, you could potentially blow the subs. Also make sure your sub's depth isn't too much for the box. But realistically, you can absolutely make your box work with 12" sub's. Just make sure the depth will fit.

 

Thanks for posting that It was nice Information. When you say replace the stock speakers will I need to get new wire for the new speakers. Another question would be what Is a voltameter where can I get one. I know this may also be a dumb question but are you reffering to the amp as a sucker In that paragraph. Well to be honest with you I didnt understand anything In this paragaph Pro tip: Secure your ground with at least three self tap screws, and that you're screwing on a bracket or something that's raised on the floor. Reason: Gas tanks are closer than you think. Thanks for helping with these starter questions I am trying to figure all this out.

 

Specs for the amp:

Product Features

• 550 Watt max peak output power
• 80 Watts X 2 Ch RMS output power (@0.09% THD from 20Hz~20 kHz into 4 Ohms)
• 220 Watts bridged RMS output power (4 Ohm)
• Bridgeable to Mono
• MOSFET power switching transistors

Technical Details

Model: SA3002
Product Features

• 550 Watt max peak output power
• 80 Watts X 2 Ch RMS output power (@0.09% THD from 20Hz~20 kHz into 4 Ohms)
• 220 Watts bridged RMS output power (4 Ohm)
• Bridgeable to Mono
• MOSFET power switching transistors

Technical Details

• Model: SA3002

Specs for sub ( I think these are right but couldnt find Information on the JL Audio 10 Inch 10w1-8 Subs. ) :


Car Speaker Type:ComponentElements:1-WayCar Speaker Function:SubwooferSize:10"Nominal Power Handling:125 Watt RMSTechnical Features Sensitivity:86 dBMounting Enclosure:Non-EnclosedMounting Diameter / Length:9.13 In.Miscellaneous Product ID:93735091More InformationDetails: The sound of a Jl Audio 10" subwoofer will send your factory speakers running for cover. Your music will rock with an attitude. This 10" subwoofer handles 125 watts RMS, and delivers deep bass with terrific sound quality.

 

I gave the specs that I think are the right ones but I couldnt find a whole lot the the JL Audio 10 Inch subs 10W1-8 Is the model. One thing I thought was wierd was that the sub box had alot of like cottontype material Inside I didnt know they were supposed to be stuffed with that. Any adivce you have would be nice. Thanks.

 

You have to make sure your ground is secure to a chassis ground. Make sure your location is metal that is bolted or welded to the body. As for the poly fill in the box, they use that to trick the sub into thinking it's in a bigger box. Completely normal to have it in. The fill slows down the bass wave and air movement inside the box.

 

One thing thats wierd Is that when I tap on the right subwoofer It sounds solid. But when I tap on the left sub woofer It sounds a little bit different. Its hard to explain buy makes like a sound that doesnt sound normal. If that makes sense. It sounds kinda likes there might be a loose piece. Like a echo type sound.

 

Does it sound like paper being crumbled?

 

I haven't tried the subs yet because I need to get a deck along with wire. But when I tap on the outside of the sub it sounds like there is a like tin type echo sound instead of being solid sounding. It has a weird like echo type tin type sound if that makes sense. Ughh.

 

Are the subs in box's? If so, push in on the sub and listen for air leaks.