I was gonna suggest a generic harness. I just dont have any experience with one. At 160 Speedway is about as good as it gets for a 20 circuit. You can do a fuel pump and windows and locks with that.

 

Yes, it is a universal generic harness, and not much it wont cover for power accessories. It comes with a ton of extra ground straps for various electrical items, new main feed with fusible link, tons of connectors to crimp on for devices. Just need solder and shrink tube to complete it.

 

Vall I have a question about those harnesses. Do I still need to run relays with them? I know they have leads for fuel pump and fans. But both of these I run on relays mine as most sane people do. How would I go about this? Build myself a relay board? I saved the factory relay box from my GP when I scrapped it. I just dont have the experience replacing entire systems. How do they go about relays for like power windows? These are all things I would think need to be protected from high current loads but I never see any in the kits advertised.

 

No they don't come with relays Damon, and I always like relays on heavy loads, so I add my own. I use either Potter & Brumfield VF4-15F11-201 or Duralast 20007 five pin relays. Both are the standard relays used in most automotive systems, and work well. I get relay connectors for about $3 ea. or grab junk relay panels from the wrecking yard for a couple dollars, and the relays are free!
Basically wire the identified circuit from the wiring harness across the contacts on the relay, and the control source to start the relay across the coil of the relay. On a P&B of Duralast the coil is terminals 85-86, and the contacts are terminal 30 as common and 87-87a as NO and NC.
The factory relay boxes make it a clean looking setup, vs. a relay hanging from a connector, but either way I put a screw terminal strip near the fuse box, and that way it's easy to mark and terminate the wiring. It takes 4 screw terminals for each device, so 4x whatever number of devices you're running. Fan, fuel, electric windows, would require a 12 screw terminal strip. I jumper from ground to ground on every 4th terminal, and then one wire to a good ground somewhere to tie them all together for the 12 neg. side of the coils. I make all the hot's to each the same position, and all the contacts the same position, so I know exactly which terminal is which in each set of 4 terminals.
I also have grabbed a half dozen spare relays over the years from scrapped cars, and I have kept a spare in the glove box of every car I had that used relays. Had one fail on my Austin one day, and lost my fuel pump. Since then I carry a spare so I never lose a fuel pump or fan due to a relay failure.
The Speedway kit comes with a connector for circuit 5 that is all spares from the fuse panel. A good source of power for control power to the various relays used for windows, fuel pump, or fans. I usually use one spare as my control circuit for all of these, as the control load to fire the coils is a very small load.

 

How about a drawing of that when you get a minute. No rush but I would like to see what you got going on. I sat after my post the other night and researched harnesses.

I like the 24 circuit Ron Davis set up. It has three relays integrated in the panel and another four can be mounted to it. Plus the fuse panel is on a magnetized pad that allows you to pull it out 18" to trouble shoot. Then there are 4 selectable circuits that can be switched or constant power just by moving the fuse to one side or another. With the EFI I need multiple relays so this is right up my alley. Not cheap but nothing on the car has been. My truck on the other hand is all about simplicity. So the speedway set up will work fine.

 

Sure Damon! I'm headed out for the day, but when I get back later I'll draw it up.

 

I appreciate it. I cant see it in my head until I look at a drawing.

 

Excuse my drawing skills, but here it is. Large, so easier to read.


The terminal marked "12v. + Fused Feed" would be the source for carrying the load, so fuse accordingly.
The terminal marked "Load" is whatever you want to operate with the relay; ie-Fuel pump, fan, windows, etc.
The terminal marked "To control Sw. 12v. +" would be your point of switching or calling the relay on. Could be a simple toggle switch, fan temp sensor, window switch, pressure switch, etc.
The "12v.-" is simply a common ground jumpered to all neg. 12v. coils and then to ground to complete the circuit. Of course each load will also have it's own ground established at the point of the load.

Hope this makes more sense.

 

Here are a few diagrams that I have used to explain how to use a relay on my motorcycle forum that may help you look at it in a different way.

Uncle BoB

 

Thanks guys. Mine are wired basically the same just dont have the terminal strips.