I still have ton of questions. Did you use the stock motor mounts? did the stock oil pan fit? You could help a lot of people by posting as many details as possible.

People get mad at me when I try to talk them out of converting their cars. I am all for any project as long as people know what they are getting into. We see so many guys that do not have the tools or the resources to finish the job but they start anyways. Most guys that start the job do it because it will be cheaper then finding a low miles replacement engine or cheaper then buying a V8 car. Those are just the wrong reasons for a project like this.

Since I have been on this site probably the 30 person who has started the conversion and you are the 3rd to finish it. For every person that started it we have had 10 people ask about it. You can normally tell. Post number one: How do I install a V8!, Post two: it can't be that hard! Post Three: This sucks. By post five we never see them again.

 

Maybe my thread should be stickied and then a FAQ can be developed from people who still have questions?

 

ok want to do that I got one on order we got the pump installed left shock tower ,its running great right now ,finley washed it ,the one other thing is that 70 amp atlternator ,I don't no if its them running my fan to long had battery on charge its 700cca all night will see but my set of jumper with me ,the least of worries I think its either the alternator like I said not powerful enough ,the battery is less then one year old so I am going to drive it around keene today ,then go in patch the hole in on the tank my gauge works but like we knew I need other gauges the volt is peged an the hot cold not exact or the tach ,I can do myself rest my tank in back an my boom box ,detail that engine,thanks gorn

 

ok not I see as we put a brand new motor ,the mounts were modified ,did not use old pan look at my garage you can see whear the tranny meets the engine ,an the chome pan let put is this way near everything was modified I talked about that at some point ,the manifolds as well ,going to headers next year 2 pipe run ,the one thing that went right was droping the engine in went right an bolted to the turbo 350 .30,minutes ,most or my wireing is gone,ok I am not they will come to mind an I will talk more about them ,but it works ,just got to know how to modify things ,a lot was waiting for certain parts ,there was about 80 hours in the swap,there was spacer put on the tranny to make it fit but my cross member worked,gorn you would probley agree the mech needs to be creative,the thread at some point talks pretty much about everything ,it could have been worse I guess .lets see it it running for bit,if to good mechs with creative minds take 2 weeks they should have no problem doing it ,but in my case they had other cars to work on in the middle of mine is why it took about a month ,an the help od the forum,but actually I metioned most already ,only thing from lt1 was use was pvc hose ,the power streering same as the lt1 ,got one that spins right instead of left

 

the batteries being charged bye the alternator fine ,its the idle thing ,best idea I got is 900cca to for with the 70amp alt I only have 600 in it now ,should be fine working out the carb tuneing ,but running great ,I need to rest tonight detail the car outside ,then cover the hole I just want to drive for few days going to look for one of those gauge set ups that have volts oil pressure an engine temp they make them small enough to mount some whear there without taking out the old one may mount right in front or on dash,then next year get the speedo kit ,thanks guys

 

80 Hours, is that with a full shop and a lift? What did they charge you for labor?


As for your electrical issue. Put a voltmeter on your battery, get a reading. Start the car up the reading should be higher then the not started reading. If the voltage is at or under the not started reading your alternator is not keeping up. If the car was just on the charger make sure you bump the key before you take your "not started" reading. Charges can give a battery a static charge that will show higher battery voltage then the battery actual has. A larger battery would just be a band aid if the alternator can not keep up with the cars demands. Low idle RPMs can be problematic on GM distributers. Depending on your setup a pulley change could fix the issue.

With all the custom wiring something could be wired wrong and drawing down the battery when the car is not running.

 

[QUOTE=Gorn;694646]80 Hours, is that with a full shop and a lift? What did they charge you for labor?


As for your electrical issue. Put a voltmeter on your battery, get a reading. Start the car up the reading should be higher then the not started reading. If the voltage is at or under the not started reading your alternator is not keeping up. If the car was just on the charger make sure you bump the key before you take your "not started" reading. Charges can give a battery a static charge that will show higher battery voltage then the battery actual has. A larger battery would just be a band aid if the alternator can not keep up with the cars demands. Low idle RPMs can be problematic on GM distributers. Depending on your setup a pulley change could fix the issue. it higher at higher rpms the streetrod type a shop lift 45, per hour yes at was about a 1000.00 more mosty couse of the mods ,I am going to keep an eye on it even with the fuse link 80amps it was lower at idle an higher at over 1200 rms aprox

 

tomorrow I am going back will check it again I will show him the print out that's the way I allways seen it ,though the seller of the alternator said peak 70amps is not had to 1800rpms an to put 4 gauge fuse link in there ,that seem fine for what I think of as a street rod that does not run lights often ,we settled at $3000 labor about 600 more than I wanted to pay,but I know they had a lot more hours standard rate is $60.00 $45.00 for me ,like isaid above I will print that up an bring it to him tomorrow now I had not problem yesterday but ran no lights yet or nothing besides the engine an fans when they come on at 190 an shut off at 180 aprox,thanks gorn will work out the ****** in the next week ,I am reluctant to run the lights at night yet I may try them during the day ,yes the battery at no run was 13.1 then 12.3 at idle ,then up to 13,5 an more an 1800 or more ,my point to him is sitting in traffick that wont get it like you I allways though its supposed to be higher at run,its powermax usa on ebay 70amp alt street rod alt so like I said its charging at normal speeds .its the one wire ,he said he may be able to hook it up with the 2 in the back ,so it charges normal ,I think who would want that kinda alternator,i did question him on the amps ,so worse case is a different alt that puts out more amps at idle or volts,so this one is charging but only above 1800 rpms does not make sence to me ,like you one I thing I new it it should be 13,5 at idle,dont think anything is pulling power not running it has started fine after a good charge but then I only had it home 2 days now

 

yes I hear you for so after all those guys were pretty good ,it can ne done ,I had video of it running will post another soon ,going to look for a better alternator for the set up ,guess chrome does not matter at this point as its realy not even seen ,posting the pretty much done pics,i belive talk about most all at some point in the thread ,there was also a lot of the wireing removed that was not needed ,its 406 from karl perfomance with few upgrades inside ,350 turbo ,an guy could do this with a friend for around $7000.00 an may save some depending on ,whear they live ,a lot of cases of beer ,an a lot of knowledge to make thing work ,,like said the manifold were modified to fit as well as the motor mounts ,I am sure some guys could make other parts work ,inline fuel pump,a speedo cable coversion an or a change of the cluster ,what I will probley do is get the kit for the speedo ,an add a combo volts oil temp guage about 100.00 to add one ,so the pulleys I got like one at a time an saved there ,the only thing used from the lt1 was the manfolds an mounts ,the rear will need to rebuild ,there is a link hear wich is the choice I will take to rebuild the 10 bolt to handle 400+ hp ,the tranny support works from the lt1 ,but needed a spacer put in it to make it work ,if there is questions I will be around an a lot more in winter ,thanks gorn,I will make video of it running soon ,don't know what happen to that one ,for me a 3rd was labor so I payed about 9000.00 + I got 3 core radiator b&m tranny cooler ,guys I guess don't have to buy everything new I just figured ,get as much new as possible ,yes I see that post that stop after a few posts,i wiltell the guys I am sure it will give them an uplift with your help we all did it together ,will post the pics at my garage the computer gremlins hidden them

 

got new air cleaner on order 14x3 drop bace an offset forward hope it fits willpost the rest to garage soon fans are very close to engine ,try to get some close ones,the alt is just need a more powerful one or modify this one to to work ,an may upgrade battery ,but to keep it simple ,just don't get this kinda alt ,a mini is fine ,just one with more power at idle ,I think we can hook it up a diffrent way to get it to run more power at idle ,couse like said it charges at 1800rpms or more ,bad move on mechs part I wanted a more powerful one ,any how ,when its right again will have ac next year the 30amp amplifier an cameras for certain places I park ,so I would guess 100amps or more but in a mini as don't want to have shim anything again ,the water pump pulley was shimmed,went about 100 miles in 2 days now ,soon post the video running don't know what happen to it,i think it looks good ,as you cansee the power streering res is now on the drivers side ,can add chrome master cyclinder chrome radiator shruad cover ,chrome fuse box cover ,they sell it all ,to make it look pretty,like said 80 hours gorn was mach up ,it only took about 9 hours to take out the lt1 an radiator ,most of the hours were the mods ,all new hoses,like I said I chose new parts other then the rebuilt tranny,anyone planning on doing this or putting anyting more powerful then the lt1 ,I am going to beef up the frame an shock tower brace ,there a lot more power an the possibility of twisting the frame is great mi plan to buy the steel frameing painting it ,an have the mech weld it in ,will be less exspencive ,shock tower brace not that costly for the one I seen 90.00 ,an probely 500.00 to beef up the frame ,an 500.00 to 600 for the rearend upgrade already included in my price ,just know time for it this year ,if I want another 60+ days of drive time ,I have had out to first week in December ,depends on how the a snow fallsi get average 7 to 8 months per year to enjoy my ride ,an allways look forward to getting it out ,does not take long to miss it if you love your car like I do