That's why I made that space Plan is to use the pacecrappers and do an over-the-k setup, with a gt35 sitting on the end of the tubes. Then a nice big intercooler, with the bumper cover cut to let it get some good air. But that's a ways out, first is the pa racing k-member, then new shocks all around, then I'll build up the T5 and get a good clutch. After all that, then I'll start on the boost machine, I want this thing ready for it when that time comes.

Since the tune is on the 23rd, I'm hoping to hit the track on the 24th. I've been itching to race this thing so bad It's been about 6-7 months since my last pass.

Also installed my boxed LCA's today, rebuilt rear goes under the car next Friday.

 

did u use spohns, i was thinking of getting the adjustable ones but probly dont need to do that, boxed would most likely be more than good for me, thats a last thing though. still working on the ecu problem.

 

They're stockers boxed up actually, with poly bushings. I'd like some adjustable ones, but these were given to me.

 

I was thinking of boxing then powder coating my rear lower control arms but when I researched it I read these control arms need to flex. If you box them up you need a bushing that will pivot. If you box them up and go with a stiffer noraml straight bushing you will put a lot of stress into the frame. It makes sense since there is really nothing to handle the rear being uneven with the body. Is there a bushing you guys use?

 

That would be a concern if you were building for handling, some of the companies sell a joint style bushing as an option to their LCA's. A solid poly bushing like I have will "bind" and act like a large sway bar since it restricts that movement. But I'm not concerned with that since it's a drag car. For handling I should have a long torque arm for hard braking, moog solid rubber bushings in the stock LCA's (used to) or joint style bushing lca's, 19mm rear bar, 32mm front bar, stock springs, and good shocks (koni). PHB can be poly, and needs to be adjustable. Bump stops need to be the factory v6 style, not poly like some companies push. But I don't even have a front sway bar now, lol. I do still have my strano-bilstein shocks all around, but those will be going for kyb's up front and comp engineering 3-ways out back. The spohn torque arm I have is short, and makes for a nice launch, but the back end will hop under extreme braking maneuvers.

 

Time for a new clutch, it came apart at the dyno tune session. Least that's what I'm thinking right now, hope it's not something worse. Made decent numbers for a low dollar NA build, 248hp to the wheels, which means almost 300 at the crank. Next up is boost, hoping to make 350+ to the wheels with the next round of modifications. But the next step will be rather expensive, so it'll take a while to do. For now though, gotta fix this thing and go make a pass at the track, gonna be 2 months though before I can afford the junk it needs.



going home after it broke

dyno sheet


http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/l...ull4-23-10.flv

 

Wow, that's pretty damn good....poor clutch!
Now, if only you had an automatic....

 

automatic my *** I refuse to put something in this thing designed for little old ladies going to buy groceries

 

sounds good. whats this old lady stuff? lol. the right side seems a little dead, af wasnt moving much. is that the sensor?

 

Yeah, we didn't have it hooked up to read fuel psi or boost (cause there is none), and only had 1 wideband in it's back side (so the other isn't reading). And the AF being steady is a good thing, lol. See the top line on the tune picture? That's the AF ratio, nice and flat.