Project Bone Maro 2000 Z28

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 02-07-2011, 08:51 AM
craby's Avatar
April 2011 ROTM
ROTM Winner's Club
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,673
Default

contaminated with what? i got my ps pump from the local parts store. first one failed second one is working fine. cost like 60 bucks. i see hoses for the pump are about 60 bucks for both at advanced. i see advanced has rebuilt rack for 140 bucks.
 
  #22  
Old 02-07-2011, 09:28 AM
rmoncur's Avatar
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Layton, Utah
Posts: 136
Default

Originally Posted by DarkFox
Dirt. the seals are shot on the rack and the previous owner lived on a dirt road and drove the car on it for 4 years.

There's a core charge with the rack from summit, that's why it sounds so expensive. if I have to pay it.. ever.. it's part of the cost. Even if I supposedly get $150 back.. I know I won't get it back in any sort of timely manner, and they might say I didn't ship it right or whatever..I put little/no faith in "core charge" fees.

steering and stopping are the 2 most important things once you're moving lol. So.. I have to take them both very seriously. I don't want to get any low grade stuff.
Got a sensor that chevy dealer wanted 200$ from these guys for 40$ shipped...was the exact same GM sensor that the dealer would have sold me.
 
  #23  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:33 AM
Massey's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Spanaway, WA
Posts: 3,354
Default

If you have a local Advance Auto or O'reilly Auto near you use them for the parts before you use Summit. Summit is great for the performance stuff but a little expensive for normal replacement.

Here is a link to the rack at my store.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2873&ppt=C0031

The pump

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2869&ppt=C0031

Hoses

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2846&ppt=C0031
The return hose is just bulk hose.

Tie rod ends from Moog

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3448&ppt=C0203

Now the prices may be different where you are. Also by getting the parts at your local store even if it is a few $$$ more than through the mail you dont have to worry about waiting for your core return refund or shipping. If you do have a warranty issue they are right here for you and not in the mail. Oh and A1C parts through Summit are the same as through Advance or O'Reilly.

Massey
 
  #24  
Old 02-07-2011, 01:36 PM
Massey's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Spanaway, WA
Posts: 3,354
Default

I just looked up the O'reilly stuff since I work there and I know I stock good stuff that I know you want for your car. I have also worked at Advance and I know they also have good stuff. I see people from Autozone come into my store all the time with Value-crap or Duralast parts that have failed well before the stuff I sell would have ever considered failing.

To me I buy when I can from my local stores. I prefer to talk to people, in person or on the phone. I hate talking to computers. (funny I am an IT guy for a living). I know what you mean about the core being lost. I have had that issue with Warranty parts from Dell.

$4K is about average retail for the front and rear set of willwood brakes I want. I am going with the set that can fit inside 17" rims. I have my rims picked out I just need the $1500 for them first.

Massey
 
  #25  
Old 02-07-2011, 02:55 PM
Massey's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Spanaway, WA
Posts: 3,354
Default

This is the set I decided on.

http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels-fo...02364-2-1.html

They have a package deal too with tires for $1400 ish. The tires are not bad either.

Massey
 
  #26  
Old 02-07-2011, 05:10 PM
Massey's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Spanaway, WA
Posts: 3,354
Default

Torque thrust rims look to me great on the new Mustangs, 1st and 2nd gen Camaros but not on 3rd or 4th gens.

I am debating on the tires tho. I have been researching the Nexen N3000 tires that come with their package deal and the reviews are really mixed. Some say junk others say great. It is advertised as a performance tire, so those who are expecting 30K + miles on them are not gonna get it. I know they are an economy tire but are they a total waste or will they do for now?

Massey
 
  #27  
Old 02-07-2011, 05:26 PM
Buffalo02Z28's Avatar
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,365
Default

Originally Posted by Massey
This is the set I decided on.

http://www.oewheelsllc.com/Wheels-fo...02364-2-1.html

They have a package deal too with tires for $1400 ish. The tires are not bad either.

Massey
Those are some nice wheels! They didn't offer those when I got my wheels. I say go with Nitto NT555 tires. They're affordable and the tread looks the best IMO.
 
  #28  
Old 02-07-2011, 09:44 PM
Buffalo02Z28's Avatar
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 1,365
Default

Its true, these ten bolts suck. A 3.73 rear gear or higher will snap if you push it.
 
  #29  
Old 02-07-2011, 10:47 PM
Massey's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Spanaway, WA
Posts: 3,354
Default

Originally Posted by DarkFox
right now the engine knocks when it's cold, it goes away when it warms up but it's sort of.. ominous. makes me a little uncomfortable with the status of it. 1-2 shift on the 4L60E is also VERY hard.. and I'm not sre.. but I think it's slipping.

either that or this car spins tires really really easily..

That is not knocking. It is a common issue with the LS1 engine. It is Piston slap. The piston was not long enough so it rocks back and forth in the bore until the engine gets hot enough to shrink the bore and expand the piston. Once this happens the piston does not rock in the bore and the noise goes away.

If you plan on rebuilding the engine you can get the pistons used in the 2001-05 LS1 engines which were made out of Hypereutectic aluminum and had a longer skirt that didn't cause as much rocking. Hypereutectic pistons don't expand like normal alloy they dont expand much at all. This allows the bore to piston clearance to be much tighter (like in an iron block clearance) and helps eliminate the noise.

Check this article out.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypereutectic_piston

Just dont get hot on the gas petal until that sound goes away.

Massey
 
  #30  
Old 02-08-2011, 07:41 AM
rmoncur's Avatar
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Layton, Utah
Posts: 136
Default

Dunno about the auto trans but I squeal in 1, 2, and 3 if I get on it hard.
 


Quick Reply: Project Bone Maro 2000 Z28



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:08 AM.