nevermind

 

your neighbors house and driveway is above yours and you are below the grade of the street. How do you keep all the water runoff from the street and neighbors yard out of your garage. I'm also not surprised at the cracks in the driveway. OK, enough of that

I think it looks good on the exterior. You need to find a shop with a lift where for $100 cash the owner will let you toss it on the lift and give it a looksee and have him look at it with you. Ask them to do it around closing time.

I bring all of my cars to my buddy's shop once per year and put them in the air. You can miss things when you only have jack stands

 

Good looking car. That one pic looks like the rack and pinion is leaking, might be part of the steering issue.

 

The underside does not look too bad, previous owner must have lived down a dirt road or you guys have alot of them there.

The steering rack looks like it needs to be replaced and that would also explain the tight steering. You can see the fluid leaking from around the pass side bellows. That is a sign that the fluid is getting past the pistons. When replacing a rack you should also do the outer tie rod ends as well.

The brake lines on the rear look good on the driver's side but not so good on the pass side does not look like my car's does. Might want to have that checked out too.

Massey

 

Dang, didn't charge you anything? I'd toss him a $50 gift card to the local Chilis. It's good to find a good guy like that.

So overall it seems as if no major surprises. How were the axle seals? Any leaking there?

And I hear ya about selling................

I remodeled my home completely top to bottom in 2005 in hopes of selling in 2010...........ugghhhhhh

 

the knock is prob piston slap (im pretty sure thats an LS thing maybe an LT massey will know for sure hes really good when it comes to these cars youll find him to be one of your closest friends here) anyways piston slap is when the skirt of the piston slaps the cylinder wall because its slightly to small it goes away when the engine gets to temp because the piston expands

the 4k issue could be fuel related get it pressure tested should be around 46lbs i think cant quite remember craby knows for sure

the electrical issue sounds like the alt my car did the same thing but never showed up on the gauge i got a new alt and all was good

(i had a V6 3.4L these LS motors are kinda foreign to me)

edit: just read off LS1tech.com fuel pressure should be 58-60lbs

 

hatch the only way to go i made the mistake of dropping the tank because i thought the conv top would get in the way took me 3 days what a nightmare got it all back together and the sob didnt work WTF lol anyways i cut the hatch with a cutoff wheel i can change the pump in these cars in 25 min including cutting the hatch and ya just put a piece of sheetmetal over it with some silicone to seal it no screws youll prob pop the tank theres only like 1/4 inch in between as for the filter your going to want to change the filter after you do the pump so if you plan on doing the pump soon just hold off on the filter and save yourself 15 bucks your gunna need it the pumps for these are like 150 or so depending on where you get it rockauto.com has them the cheapest any questions on replacing that just send me a pm i have LOTS of pics somewhere on here i have a detailed thread ill try and find it for ya

 

This is not a rod knock. It is a common complaint about LS1 engines, it is piston slap. When the engine is cold the pistons are a little loose in the bores because of the needed extra expansion room aluminum needs over iron. Dont worry too much about this but dont run the engine hard until the sound goes away.

Your car is telling you, you need to change the oil. To turn off the light hold the trip/reset button for 15 seconds, or until you see the "Change Oil" light blink.

This sounds to me like a dying alternator. The diodes are bad and the regulator is not far behind. Get a Lifetime new or rebuilt from Advance or O'reilly and never worry about it again. Also replace the belts while you are at it. Goodyear Gatorback are my #1 fav followed by the Gates Premuim.

OH and us Autobody guys can always tell when a car has been painted. Just trust me here, you see enough of them you can see the signs. Also getting a Qtr put on the car is no biggy so long as the tech sealed it up good and he welded it nice and solid.


Massey

 

Yeah Alternator isn't too bad...

 

The codes AU0 and AU8 are both needed for the Keyless entry, you will not have one without the other. If you have one then you just need to buy key fobs with the PN16245100-29 Model/FCC ID AB01502T. There is instructions on how to program the fobs in your owner's manual

You may be having a BCM issue with the radio. Check this thread out for more info

https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-general-41/body-control-module-repair-52062/

This is very common on these cars and I have repaired about 4 of these units myself now for myself and friends. IF you can get the A1 Cardone power steering pump as well as the rack. I dont get warm fizzies from generic part store parts (I know this I work behind the counter at O'reilly). Moog is great suspension parts you cant go wrong there.
Get a Mother's clay bar to help smooth out the paint. It is basicly a very fine polishing clay that will help remove any minor pitting and scratches. Yes if the body man that looked at your car takes pride in his work he would easily notice unfinished areas of the car. I was like that too (still am but I am unable to work in a body shop any more) it should not be too hard to scuff the burnt paint off and shoot a little new stuff on there. If it cant be seen then a rattle can of black followed by some undercoating after the paint dries should provide adequate corrosion resistance.

Cant wait to see the new pics. Love the car BTW if I have not said so before, and the color is great too.

Massey