^ +1 goes to Psycho, but then again you all know I have been saying similar things all along.

The front use a modified strut assembly, it is really simple actually. The strut in the case of the camaro is not part of the main suspension assembly like a normal strut but it still retains the captured spring that a strut does. There are 4 bolts at the top and 2 at the bottom, and you will need to release the lower ball joint to remove the shock/spring assembly. Once it is out then use a strut spring compressor to compress the spring and a impact driver to remove the nut at the top of the shock. move components over to the new shock and reassemble. Simple job and it should take some one that does not know what they are doing but knows how to use tools about an hour per side. I can do them in less than 1/2 hour per side.

Massey

 

Too slow?? WTF do you got under the hood? My LS1 has power out the @$$ and will easily break the tires loose if I punch it from anything under 40mph. My engine is stock, my exhaust is stock, my intake is stock, my tune is factory.

What brand of springs and what have you are you looking at? $1K sounds a little high for most stuffs but I could see it if you went with the shocks that Liberty is posting about all the time.

Massey

 

what is up with the BCM? Does your radio cut out on you from time to time? If so check out my thread on how to fix it. I have done about 8 of the now personally and no one has had any problems since.

Massey

 

If it won't keep up with traffic then you got problems. I would suggest that after you get the BCM issue fixed that you do a compression test and replace the plugs with some good AC ones. It probably will be an all day affair because of the tight confines of the engine bay.
NGK also makes excellent plugs. I personally have a set of NGK TR 55ix in my engine. I have read good reviews about them. Just don't buy cheap Autolite plugs.
The comp test would tell you alot about the general condition of the engine.
While the plugs are out it would be a perfect time to replace the plugs.
I wouldn't worry about the piston slap(if that is what it is). Just drive it.

 

I wrestled mine out with a little prying from a flat head screw driver and I wore some grippy mechanic's gloves so I could muscle it out. There are two tabs, one on either side, but the one against the passenger side is too tight to get at without ripping the dash out, so I would suggest patience and perseverance and just kinda walk to out.

 

And you have every right. When you take a car to a shop you expect a certain level of work to be performed. I believe it was craby that said he could do that job badly and not pay $$$ for labor. Are these people you know personally?

 

I have never had to purge the air from a Camaro PS system but other cars and trucks I have done in the past have taken a few to get all the air out. IF the fluid is foaming from the air then trying to bleed any farther will be useless since you will just be pushing the air through the pump and back into the system. Lift the nose of the car off the ground to free up the wheels and then turn lock to lock over and over a few times with the engine off to push some of the air out without pushing it through the pump again.

WHich rotors did you end up getting? I used the BrakeBest ones from my store (they are made for us by Raybestos) I dont have any problems with mine and I have "tested" the stopping ability of my car a few times since putting them on.

IF they flushed the system out and your fluid turned black a few days later you may need a new master cylinder soon. The rubber in the pistons start to break down they turn the fluid black really fast. Wait till you start feeling spongy petals before you drop the coin, the system will function for quite a while after the fluid starts turning black.

Did you have your rims tested for run out? Most tire shops will do this for you as they balance the rims but some are in such a hurry that they just mount and balance and throw them on the car. The factory runout should be less than 1/16th of an inch any more than that and it becomes hard to balance the tire and also the wear of the tread becomes much faster. That 1/16th is for the entire rotating assy of the wheel not just the wheel itself, so bent hubs and misaligned bearings come into play here too.

Massey

 

I bet that the garage could test the hub for run out. I would think that if there is a problem with the hub being bent, that it would show run-out.

 

I think that they are similar in design to my daughter's '03 Grand Am. It was easy to replace, 4 bolts and it was out. 1 hour job, tops.

For the brakes, you won't need a booster assy, just the master cyl. assy.

 

hey dark fox I do tend to stop and read your thread when Im on so I don't mind the updates lol. But good to hear its starting to come together. Your mileage seems to be pretty good. Have you maybe checked your cattalytic converters? or O2 sensors? I believe cats can rob power. And how about the fuel filter, that helped my mileage a lot.