My rims are 17X9.5 and I have no clearance issues at all. I cant remember my offset but I did move a little metal on the lower forward part of the rear wheel well. It didnt rub but it just made me feel better bending it in a little.

Glad you got the car to the shop.

LS1 is too small??? Head over to LS1 Tech and do some research, this is a good motor to build and play with and it is not that expensive. You can have 500 HP Naturally Aspairated for less than 8K, if you do the build yourself. Hell you only need bolt ons and a tune to take a 4th gen to the track and eat the new 5th gens. Did you know stock to stock the 4th gen has 100 less HP but is only .2ths slower in the 1320? Yea that is an LS1 doing that against the LS3 you want!

Massey

 

it all depends on back spacing and offset. i'm running 19x10.5 and i know plenty of people that run zr1 wheels that are 17x11.

 

The SS rims look good and they will fit just fine even tho they look close. The snubbers are about normal for an 11 year old car that lived down a dirt road. You can get them off wrecked cars for about $5 each or new for less than $30 each.

Massey

 

What calipers are you trying to get? Loaded will be hard to come by but you should be able to get the remanned ones just about any where. OH and dont even try the new ones... The new are really expensive and not worth the money. What is your zip code?

Massey

 

Here is a listing for the caliper and it shows available at an Atlanta GA store near you.

Right Front 18-4692
Cardone 18-4692 - Unloaded Brake Caliper | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Left Front 18-4693
Cardone 18-4693 - Unloaded Brake Caliper | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Right Rear 18-4697
Cardone 18-4697 - Unloaded Brake Caliper | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Left Rear 18-4696
Cardone 18-4696 - Unloaded Brake Caliper | O'Reilly Auto Parts

The pin kit is H5074 for the front you need 2
and H5075 for the rear you also need 2

That should be all you need!

Massey

 

The wagner Calipers are the new ones that are junk. I said that same thing. Get the Cardone remanned that I gave the part numbers for you will be happy.

THe pins are the part that the calipers ride on. They are cheap and if they are worn then the brakes can rattle or squeek.

Massey

 

What store are you working with. I find it odd that these calipers are not able to be had. I stock the fronts and can get the rears in a few hours. If you are getting the run around from the store then the DM for that store needs to know.

Massey

 

Relays are easy to check. You need a 12V source to energize the coil, and a ohm meter to check for the contacts closing. If you get a cosed contacts when you apply 12V to the coils you get a good relay.

Another part of the system that can cause the system not to cycle is the safety switch. I dont know for sure how to test it but it will keep the system from running with too much or too little pressure. The good news is you know that your system is still nice and sealed. Also you can jump the switch contacts of the AC relay to get the compressor to function, just be careful if the safety switch is turning the system off you dont want to run it and damage anything.

Oh and I am glad that the repairs didn't cost too much, actually that is a steal for the amount of work done. The shuddering brake issues could very well be tires out of balance.

Massey

 

Send me a PM with your E-mail and I will send you some schematics of your car to help your troubleshooting. I have tried posting them here before and the file is too big for the server.

Massey

 

ON that switch there is a lt PPL which is the +5, Grey is the ground and the Red/blk is the signal. So if all is working then you will send the +5V to from the PPL to the red for a go signal. This signal goes into the PCM not the BCM. The PCM is what gives the relay the go/no go and if you jump the relay the clutch should engauge, there is nothing between the clutch and relay. You dont need to have the engine running to check this just turn the ignition to the on positiion.

Massey