No, only one if the one, like yours, is the right value. You only need to use more than one if a single resistor won't get you there. There are 15 different ohm values. Other than the specific vats resistors, as mentioned in the write up, you're not likely to find the precise single resistor at radio shack to cover every one.

 

Understood Camaro69. On my third trip to the shack I was able to talk to a very knowledgeable person, after looking at the resistor I had she informed me that my color analyses was wrong and took the time to listen to what I was doing and with the resistor I broke was able to confirm that it was good. Unfortunately she did not have the one I needed or could not come up with a combination that would work. She did however point me to where I could order it from the web. Not radio shack but somewhere I could get what I needed without having to order a hundred of them. I was very impressed with the service I got after the first two trips there.


So it is ordered and I will get back on this as soon as it arrives and I get it put in.

 

Ok now that I am confident that the resistor that bypasses the vats is good what's next? The ignition switch? I have looked for instructions on how to test that particular piece and only found R&R instructions. I'm sure it is obvious to the electrically educated but I'm on the electrically challenged side on this one. Could someone point me in the right direction on this?

 

You can test the switch easy enough by checking for the input and output voltage at the base of the steering column.

You will have voltage going to the switch, and voltage coming from the switch.

If you don't have voltage going to the switch, check your fuses and wiring.

If voltage to the switch is good, but nothing out of the switch, then the switch is most likely the culprit, but you need to verify the wiring in the steering column also.

If you have voltage to and from the switch, then your problem is somewhere down stream. Could be the VATS, a wiring issue, or ????

Check the sbox site as there is tons of information over there that will help you track down your problem.

 

look at 30 here. 4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids this site is pretty good for 93-97 years. a lot of it is good for all 4th gens shbox.com

 

just in case, the wire colors are in initials and some words brn=brown. pink=pink.

 

Ok so I got the resistor replaced that I broke and on to figuring out my no crank problem.


I think I'm having an issue with the ignition fuse. I turned the key on and tested the injector fuses under the hood and got 12.38 pulled the ignition fuse and got 11.23. Was going to post my findings and forgot exactly what my reading was on the ignition fuse and went back to do it again. Pulled the fuse and realized that I hadn't turned the key on so I did and guess what, the fuel pump came on so I put the ignition fuse back in and the car fired right up, and did so several times after that.


After it cranked up and ran the first time I checked the voltage at the ignition fuse again and got 12.28.


Not sure what's going on here but I'm hoping that replacing that fuse and making sure the contacts for that fuse are clean and undamaged will solve the problem. This is not the first time I've had trouble in this area, just glad it didn't cost me another $600 or so dollars to find it to be the problem again

 

cool. lets hope thats it.