Hello everyone. I am having some problems with my 96 z28. Only mod is muffler delete and c6 corvette rims. I recently had the waterpump replaced because it was leaking water. After about a week the car wouldnt srart so i took it to a mechanic who said there was gasoline in the oil which he said was because of a bad fuel injector. He replaced the bad fuel injector drained the oil, put new oil in and a new oil filter. Car started up but still had to crank a lil bit to start it. I had him replace the fuel pump because it was throwing a evap purge code (p1441 i think) which i was told was a bad fuel pump usually. After that the car started up a lot quicker then before. A week later i started to feel the car taking longer to crank. It actually sounds like the crank was getting weaker as u cranked it but still turned on. This morning when i went to crank it, it sounded like the crank got real weak to the point where i thought it wasnt going to turn. But keeping the key forward even as weak as it sounded it turned on. I thought for sure it wasnt going to start. Anyone know what this could be? Any ideas? I'm going to try to take it to the mechanics after work ifnit turns on, but wanted to see what you guys think. Just trying to get an idea what type of repair costs im in for.

Other problems i have been having with the car is that it revs on its own when parked or stopped at a light. It started doing this about 2 years ago when i had a mechanic change the optispark plugs and wires. It was fine before they changed the plugs and wires... I have replaced the iac, egr, and tps. I even had them smoke the lines to check for vacuum leaks and replaced all the bad hoses. Still same problem. I have to disconnect the iac at a low idle when the car is cold just to stop it from revving on its own all the time. So yes, i drive it with the iac always disconnected. I dont know what else could be causing the problem with the revving. When i disconnect the iac. The car idles normal. I have taken it to several mechanics in this area but they are unable to figure it out as well.

My main concern right now is the starting up problem. I need this car for work right now so if it doesnt start on me im screwed. Also the car was parked for about 2 years. Opti plugs and wires were done 2 years ago before i parked it. And yes it was having revving issues before i parked it for 2 years.

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

Btw, starting the car up sounds worser/weaker/quiter each time i start it. Sounds like its going to die when cranking it. And the battery is a new autozone brand one. I just bought it early this month.

 

After getting out of work the car wont start at all. It just makes a clicking kind of sound. Could it just be the starter? Having it towed to the mechanics shop right now to see what they can find.

 

sounds like battery is dead or starter is a gonner or both. charge battery an see if it starts. whats the volt meter reading?

 

what spark plugs are you using? what plug wires. sounds like one problem started with the new stuff so i would suspect the new stuff.

 

not sure how a evap problem would mean a bad fuel pump. do not over fill the gas tank, when it clicks to shut off leave it, do not add more,,, unless you know its not full that is. over filling can foul the evap charcoal canister and cause issues. go to the reference, repair and owners manuals section and download the service/shop manual for your year. lots of good info

 

Thank you for your response craby! The starter crapped out on me. Had it replaced and its starting as normal.

Im left with 2 issues right now. The car overheats when i am stopped at a light or just in park. It goes back down as i begin to drive. I forgot to mention this ealier. The other issue is that the car is surging on its own. Im not sure if these issues are related or not. The fans do turn on when i test them. I van hear the high speed fan come on when the temp almost eeaches the red. Then it shuts off when the temp is normal then temp will begin to rise at a stop light again. I have replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor because the mechanic at the shop said it might fix it. Thermostat was replaced when they did the plugs and wires. BTW, plugs and wires were from autozone. Not sure what brand they were. The low coolant dash light does come on from time to time. The coolant level is full though as the mechanic made sure and even opened the bleed valve and coolant came out right away. I did notice the surging started right after they did the plugs and wires. But a lot of people tell me its a vacuum leak. I had the mechanic smoke it and replaced all broken hoses. Replaced EGR, TPS, IAC, and waterpump (because it was leaking coolant). The radiator has never been flushed or serviced since i have had it (i know i should have done this long time ago :/

What should i have the mechanic check next? Im at a loss. Do i just have them put a new radiator? Maybe that will fix my heating issue? Maybe it will also fix the surging issue as well? Im not getting any codes either. Btw, if i force both fans on while running the car it stays cool even at the stop lights. If i disconnect the iac the surging stops right away. So i leave it disconnected to keep it from surging at every stop. Btw it only surges when it gets warmed up. It also feels like its running rich and backfires every now and then. Not sure if its because the iac is disconnected and not revving on its own enough to burn the gas? Im not a mechanic, just need a little guidance in the right direction. Thank you to anyone who can help out!

 

check the coolant level in the radiator. have a look at this https://camaroforums.com/forum/lt1-l...-system-66742/

 

did you set the iac when it was installed? look at 47 here 4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids a new iac needs to have the baseline set.

 

Thank you once again. I will try these steps and see what happens.