Okay, I am still having problems with my 99 Camaro 3.8 V6. A while back, I checked the codes as my ever-glowing SES light convinced me to put her on the computer. I got three codes: TPS, MAF and EGR Valve. We got a new MAF- beautiful $170 piece of plastic. So, it started running okay. Now, and for the past few weeks, the car has been stumbling through acceleration. It will run alright until I slow down, then return to acceleration. Initially, it does not respond to acceleration, then the RPMs jump and it will finally go. Huge pain in my ***!!! Most recently, I had it to the floor and could barely creep up to speed. Today, we tried to test the TPS with an ohm meter, but my manual indicates different wiring than I actually have on the car and the TPS appears to be riveted on. WTF? I'm totally lost now... Please give me any advice you may have and save the "take it to a mechanic" crap for the moron who can't change his oil. Thanks!

 

well since you dont want to hear take it to a mechanic line ill do for ya what i can. as ive stated here in this forum many times the codes one gets from these cars are not necessarily the quick fix solution but a direction in which to look. must remember a code is an indication of a problem in that circuit and not an order to replace a part. also in the tps circuit for example is the wiring, pcm, connectors and grounds, this is typical for most circuits so you see theres lots of places to have problems not just the sensor in the circuit. do you have the factory manual or one of the high dollar chiltons or haynes?? not to say it cant happen but the factory stuff rarely has mistakes in it(wrong colors for example) i cant say the same for the ones at the local auto parts shop. egr is a fairly common code but like all codes should be dealt with. do you still have the ses light on after you changed the maf?? sounds like your zeroing in on the tps ( folks please remember that these computer controlled cars cant be left in a poor running state for very long without damaging something and is usually a wee bit more expensive than a fouled set of plugs like we ended up with in the old days) while i dont have your model of car in front of me to look at most gm used torx bit screws for the tps, may need a bit more research to see if the rivet thing is factory or backyard. most gm tps have 3 wires, and with ignition on they will be 5 volt reference from pcm, tp sensor signal return and a ground and these should be checked with a QUALITY multimeter with at least a 10,000 ohm impedence rating or you risk getting bad readings or pcm damage, the ground circuit could be done engine off as an ohm test. i recommend testing in a as running state as a simple ohm test can be very misleading. your symptoms could certainly be tps related but testing will be required kurt

 

nightmaro,
Just to save you a little time, an ohm meter is not precise enough to find a "burned, or open" spot in you tps senser. A scope must be used to see a problem like that in real time. A tps senser mind you will usually only cause a stumble at an exact certain position in your pedal travel. An intermediate problem in this senser input would lead me to believe that there is a connection issue. As far as what your car is exactly doing, can't tell you with out hearing it, but i would lead more toward your egr issue, if you could give me a specific code number i could get you more info. A good place to start, without having access to a Tech 2, would be to pull the egr valve and check for obstructions in the flow, often a peice of debris can obstruct the valve from closing completely, consequently having exhaust flow at all times. Also hearing what you've described and my experience with any gm 3.8, would make me check back pressure, this is a common problem with gm cats. Back pressure can also cause egr and maf codes if they are bad enough. please post back to inform me of what turns up to put in my memory bank, and good luck