Ya, you can by-pass the key-code part pretty easy. But, I need to get the 5 volt signal to the PCM. I'm gonna work on a few things in the morning before I fly back to New Orleans. I knew this rebuild was going to smooth....................

 

Found several different solutions over the last few days that could work. So, I'm trying the shotgun effect; Found a guy to program the VATS out of the PCM for a reasonable price and sent him the original PCM yesterday, should have it back within a week, bought a bypass module that bypasses the fuel cut off and sends the 50Hz fuel enable signal independently and sent my spare PCM out to have it flashed. Should all be there when I get home on the 26th. Gonna try them in order listed, so far I'm out $100. If either one works it's a bargain. Will post again after I try each.

 

Just call me Homer!! After sending PCM out and having the VATS programmed out, still didn't work! But, I must have missed the most important thing in my original troubleshooting. All fuses and power at the fuse blocks were good, however there was no power at the PCM. DOH!!! Jumpered the orange (always hot) wire to the battery and the car started right up and runs unbelievably good. Unfortunately I wasted a lot of my time and yours chasing down gremlins that weren't really hiding. Thanks for all the help guys, gals, just remember "When all else fails, it's usually the simplest thing"