Let's backtrack. Turn the key, fuel pump doesn't prime or pump when cranking. I have spark. I changed the relay, no change. I can jumper the pump at the relay, Red to Gray, and the pump runs continually, but car won't start. Voltage at fuel pump "request" green/white wire is less than half a volt. When I release pressure at the check valve it's not very high, but I don't think this is the cause of the problem, but a symptom. After doing some reading I have ruled out the regulator, it runs on actual pressure and vacuum. SO, what are the odds the computer is bad? I had a spare from my donor car and hooked it up, no change. I have checked every connection under the hood and under the dash that I can get to without taking the engine back out and they all look fine. Suggestion? Guesses?

 

check the injector fuses. check inition fuse. check power junction box (small plastic red box on passenger fenderwell) for damage or corrosion. better check all your grounds including the ground strap that goes from the block to the frame.

 

Way ahead of ya Craby. Checked all fuses, and the connections at the power junction, yesterday. I even changed out the relays in the under hood fuse box. I think your on to something with the ground, I hope. I'll check all of them Easter weekend if I can't do it in the morning early. Going to New Orleans for 2 weeks, can't take it with me. Any thoughts on both ECM's being bad? They haven't been used in a long time 3 years on one and 2 on the other and I don't know how they were treated or maybe reprogrammed before I got them. Will Autozone or O'Reiley's test those?

 

One thing you have to remember is that after the PCM operates the pump relay it expects the engine to start within 5 seconds, otherwise the pump relay is released and no power goes to the pump, this can be confusing when checking for power to the pump. You can bypass the relay by connecting battery directly to the fuel pump prime test connector near the PCM housing. http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
This will keep the pump running but won't make the injectors fire. Spend $20 an get some NOID lamps and see if the lamps are blinking and indicating that the PCM is firing the injectors. If the VATS is in trouble and some one jury rigged around it improperly the PCM won't trigger the injectors.

 

Thanks Pete. Would the VATS give me a security light on the dash if it was activated? I'm only getting a brake and check gauges light. Volt meter and fuel gauge move, temp and oil pressure don't. I checked every other wire at the coils, blue spark. I'm going to clean and reseat all my grounds as well. I'll try the noid lights as well. I was wondering what that loose connector was, I looked everywhere thinking I had missed reconnecting something, DDDUUHH. I can get some VATS bypasses for about $20 an dbypass the fuel and injector VATS signal if that is the case. But it does crank and fire, so I'm confused re; VATS.

 

when turning the motor over does the tach work?

 

Don't remember. I'm in New Orleans now. I'll check it and see when I get back home. Just out of curiosity why do you ask?

 

Craby, remember, when I force the pump to run, prime the intake with starting fluid and crank it, it fires over but doesn't run. So, I am deducing the injectors aren't firing either. I did some checking and the fuel pump and injectors not running appears to be a VATS issue or an ECM issue. Leaning towards VATS. Comment on my logic?

 

i think the tach works off the same puise that tells the pump and injectors to come on

 

Makes sense, I'll try it. By the way, you never answered my question; How was the crab fishing this winter?