suspension
The Jazz Man
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,237
From: St. Helens, Oregon
ROTM Winner's Club
For a good handling setup, decent price:
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
2nd Gear member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 336
From: Cedar Rapids, Ia
For a good handling setup, decent price:
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,560
From: Eastern PA,
ROTM Winner's Club
For a good handling setup, decent price:
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 214
From: Western NY
Otherwise, if he had a V6 coupe, I wouldn't have suggested them. And if he really does go with 18's, then the rattling on uneven roads will get much worse.
And +1 to the adjustable Panhard rod to go with any lowering springs. You'll definitely need it for a proper alignment.
Overdrive Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,042
From: IL
*I* want both ;-)
Overdrive Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,042
From: IL
That axle impact sounds like you need new jounce bumpers... The foam-rubber-like bumpers in the rear to cushion the axle.
Overdrive Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,042
From: IL
You may also need new shocks/struts if your jounce bumpers are fine...
im not getting any squeaks form the top or anything but it is a 95 and the entire car is original even the brakes and the sound im getting is the suspension bottoming out when i hit rr tracks or potholes and sht like that i also have 18 inch rims for it and with the tires there smaller than the stocks so thats why i want the drop to fill the wheel wells a little better
1st Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 214
From: Western NY
Somehow, I doubt that your car is hitting the jounce bumpers with just crossing over RR tracks - at least with intact springs. You might want to peek under the car and have someone bounce the car up and down to see if any bolts are moving - specifically any that locate the shocks or the Panhard rod. Like I said, I heard a noise that sounds similar - just from a loose Panhard rod bolt.
Overdrive Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,042
From: IL
You provided a lot of good ideas and thoughts, but totally wrong on the strut tower brace. On both my RS & SS I noticed an immediate dramatic improvement by adding one -- in cornering, U-turns and lane changes. It may be less noticeable if you already have other suspension improvements, however.
As for SFRs, I plan to add them to both my RS & SS -- tying together the subframe is structurally very elemental and I will report back what I notice after adding them...
As for SFRs, I plan to add them to both my RS & SS -- tying together the subframe is structurally very elemental and I will report back what I notice after adding them...
For a good handling setup, decent price:
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
SLP Bilstein shocks or KYB AGX shocks all around (bilstein is more preferred than the agx's)
Strano lowering springs (proven good on corners, linear spring rate) Another good choice is the new BMR lowering springs.
WS6 or SS front sway bar (32mm) w/ poly bushings and links
19mm rear bar (z28 or TA I think, been a while) Any bigger and the back end wants to get loose. Poly bushings and links.
On-Car adjustable panhard rod (to center the rear after lowering) poly bushings, stay away from rod ends.
Moog solid rubber bushings for your stock lower control arms, these are great for handling. Stay away from poly bushings in the LCA, they bind, and act as a large sway bar. Rear end gets loose fast, think about how the suspension articulates.
Don't waste money on a shock tower brace, they're more for looks. Subframe connectors aren't really a big deal unless you're making some serious power and heaving that thing on the corners, I wouldn't worry too much about them.
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