So I go to my mechanic today to ask him about my shifting issues. I explain to him that after the car warms up it gets alot harder to shift into first, at times I'll have to shove it in with force. He hops in my car and pumps the clutch a few times, he says that the clutch is really stiff but I tell him that the clutch on these cars are harder then most and that i've been driving like that for some time now. I thought maybe I needed to bleed the clutch or change the fluid, or even if im low on gear oil. but my mechanic was insisting it was non of those. He then put it on a lift to check my slave cylinder by prying it with a a crowbar, and he could barely move it using all his might. He immediately told me the clutch was shot and ill need a new one with a pressure plate and bearing.

After further investigation we saw that I need to replace the Rear seal, which was leaking very little gear oil, and center bearing. Now im not sure exactly which sizes to get.

Can anyone point me in the direction of a good daily driving clutch kit with the rear seal and center bearing?

95 v6 3.4l

 

If its hard to go into gear your synchro could be going bad. Does it grind at all?

 

^^ agreed if it was all gears than id lean towards the clutch

 

I was having similiar issues, I did a lot of research (hours, day, etc) I finally decided to replace all~ Slave, master and clutch. On the clutch I went with a dual friction Center force clutch. I also had the fly wheel resurfaced. Car runs great!!! My girl has a operated left knee. She shift gears without a problem. Parts are not cheap but what I learned do not go cheap on clutches.

 

hell no like the crap autozone clutches i put one in my 92 celica 2.2L drove very conservative for 2000 miles and the first time i open her up i blew the clutch... JUNK

 

It's difficult to shift into any gear when the car is running, but when its off I can shift through all gears easily without even pressing the clutch. And it only grinds in reverse

 

when the engines not running the trans should shift without a problem because you have no parts moving as for hard to shift when running if its all the gears than you could possibly have a clutch issue but more likely you have a hydraulic issue odds are the slave isnt pushing the fork enough which is keeping the pressure plate from fully disengaging

try this find a very level surface where your car wont roll at all push in the clutch and put it in first with the clutch pushed in give it some gas and see if the car wants to move if so than your not fully disengaging the pressure plate

ohh and most t5s grind reverse (at least mine did and my buddys does along with chaotic94s car too)

 

When a pressure plate spring fails the clutch does not sit level it still touchs the clutch plate and trys to drive the car even when pushed in. When you combind hard to push pedal and grinding in reverse it is most likely a bad clutch. Or a bad clutch and a failing hydralic system.

Reverse is not a sync gear. Think of it as just two gears being pushed togethers. If the input shaft is spinning it will grind.

If you can put a car in reverse without any grinding and your car is hard to shift it is a sync/shift fork issue. Oh and light grinding because the input shaft is still free spinning is normal. A good test would be to push the clutch in before with the car in neutral, you start it and see if it grinds going into reverse. If it does your clutch is not completely disengaging.

 

I tried this test and my car didnt move an inch

 

This is not a great test but cause it takes a lot more force to move a 3400lb car then it takes to just spin a input shaft.

With the car turned off, Push in the clutch and put the car in neutral, Start the car, now put it in reverse with the clutch still in, If it grinds your clutch is not disengaging. If at any point you let out the clutch with the motor running the a small amount of grinding would be normal going into reverse because there is nothing to stop the input shaft from free wheeling.