new help w/97 camaro I just bought

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  #11  
Old 11-21-2010, 01:16 AM
ChevyManCam's Avatar
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np, you deserve it, your helping me out alot, im new to camaros and every car is different thats why im here to learn from the pro's
Other then that, its the battery, jumped it, removed neg cable and car kept running so its the battery.
 
  #12  
Old 11-21-2010, 08:02 AM
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maf could be dirty, try cleaning it first with maf cleaner. try changing or charging battery first, a dead battery will cause your car to run bad and die. the higher rpms will draw more amps and if the battery does not have the power the ignition will fail. never unhook a battery when the motor is running. it can burnout the voltage regulator inside the alternator and/or a negative diode, also you may have a diode out, that causes the alternator to charge only at half its capacity. that could cause the battery to drain slowly till dead. if you have a shop in the area that will test your charging system for free or min cost i would advise it. some parts stores will do it. also clean connections at the battery terminals. unhook the cables and wire brush the heck outa the battery terminals and cable ends. there is also a junction box (red plastic box) on the passenger side fenderwell, take the wires lose and wire brush them as well. check them for any signs of damage too.
 

Last edited by craby; 11-21-2010 at 11:39 AM.
  #13  
Old 11-21-2010, 09:54 AM
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all terminals are clean.
I once had a 89 toyota camry and a 93 Ford escort, when the alternators died both cars acted up, causing the gauges to flip out, the escort would shift wierd and rpms got up to 6k while not even at full thottle. but I dont think my problems are related to a dead battery or dieing alternator.
I removed the maf yesterday and it looked clean, i believe the last owner already cleaned it (probably with carb cleaner).
the screen that sits before the maf at the end on the thottle body, does that ever have to be removed and cleaned?
 

Last edited by ChevyManCam; 11-21-2010 at 11:21 AM.
  #14  
Old 11-21-2010, 11:30 AM
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the alternator will definatly make this thing run like crud... i'm a diag tech and low voltage does all sorts of things to a vehicle... i would try disconnecting the battery and charging it seperate from the vehicle, while the battery is out hold the negative and positive cables togather (this clears the computer) for about 5min. once the battery is charged put it back in the vehicle and start it... if the thing still runs like crud right away, and/or codes still exist then you know your problem isn't in voltage (as far as drivability is concerned) If thats the case shoot me some code #'s and i'll shoot you some diag steps. As far a the alt. once you have it running again if the problems go away then you can let the car run with all accesseries on and see if it drains or run it to the local parts store and have them run a load test... most can be done on the car. Or if it runs fine after charging/ with loads, and the car doesnt seem to be discharging, check for a voltage drain on it... PM me with concerns and i will run you through and procedures i can.
 
  #15  
Old 11-21-2010, 11:32 AM
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dont take the screen out leave that alone... and if you are going to clean it use throttle body cleaner instead of carb spray... it's less likely to hurt the MAF
 
  #16  
Old 11-21-2010, 12:23 PM
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well i had a really bad battery it would die in like 4 hrs replaced that and it was good for like 3 weeks and the car never acted up but then the alt started going bad again it would only hold a charge for like 4 hrs but still the car never acted up replaced the alt and all is good thats the reason i was staying away from low volts making the car run funny

craby ive owned many cars in my day (im 23 and ive probably had like 75 different vehicles) but only 6 were street legal the rest were lot cars and id always use the disconnect the neg cable to test the battery since id go to the junk yard and try to find a car that runs and never hurt anything thats why i dont have a problem suggesting it
 
  #17  
Old 11-21-2010, 12:37 PM
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ive been using the disconnect neg terminal forever too, and it never hurt anything, I used that on the escort and toyota both dieing after removing the neg terminal. Probably not a good way to test the alternator.
this is what happened last night from the start, I took a drive (at night) after installing my new spark plugs, it ran like crap and didnt fix anything, had lights on and did not at anytime notice lights dim or dimming volt gauge read like 13 or something (passed half way mark). parked the car and like 15 minutes later I went back out to start the car to move it under the car port, thats when it wouldnt turn over and battery was dead.
my wife came home from work and gave me a jump, i didnt let it sit and charge i just hooked the cables and turned it over and the car started, unhooked cables and it kept running, volt gauge read more then half, i disconnected the neg terminal and the car kept running strong.
btw i went out and started the car this morning and it started without a problem ??? wierd lol

and for that screen before the maf end of TB i did use TB cleaner I did not remove the screen however i almost consider it.
 

Last edited by ChevyManCam; 11-21-2010 at 12:44 PM.
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