Have you done these tests yet? You need to verify 12V is being applied to the relay coil at terminal D5 and the PCM is providing a ground at the relay coil terminal D2. 12V between these two terminals will power the coil of the relay and then the relay will mechanically close the contact between D1 and D4 which allows the fan motor to run, just like when you jumper across those two terminals. When I said the problem seemed to be in the control side wiring, I was referring to the wires going to the relay coil terminals D5 and D2.

 

i failed to mention my ac don't work.so the tests where i have to have ac on, i can't do

 

i followed the wires going to d2 d5. there real little brown and green wires. they both go into what looks like that plastic stuff you heat up and it shrenks. could those possibley be in line fuses.

 

The test I'm wanting you to do is done with the ignition switch in the "ON" position and the engine "OFF" while the AC switch is "ON". The AC won't actually mechanically run because the engine is not running, but the AC switch will send an input voltage to the PCM and the PCM program should command the fan relay to turn "ON" by providing a ground to it's coil. What I'm not sure of is if the AC system is low on Freon, will the PCM still command the cooling fan relay on. You also haven't said if you tested to see if terminal D5 has 12V to a ground when the ignition is on. This provides voltage to the fan relay coil from fuse #6 and if this fuse is blown, the PCM could be providing a ground to the relay as it should and the relay will never energize because it has no power source to it. When working with electrical circuits, you can't assume things are OK and not verify them. If you do, you could end up chasing your tail trying to troubleshoot, only to find out what you assumed was your problem.
It's getting to a point where you're going need a scanner and somebody capable of operating it to continue to troubleshoot. You need to know what temperature the PCM is being told the engine is running at and if the PCM has commanded the fan to run. I believe the V6 engine dash gauge in 1995 uses a separate sensor than the PCM sensor, so the PCM sensor may be bad and telling the PCM that the engine temp is not warm enough to require the fan to come on.
As for in line fuse in the wiring, if it has, someone has modified the wiring and we would have a whole new ballgame.

 

peterpar: i i wanna thank you for trying to help me out. i think it's to the point i need to take it to my boys. i've never been good at electrical.i 'm just not smart enough to do electrical. it may be a couple weeks before i can get it in there. but as soon as i find out what's wrong, i'll get on here and let you know what the problem was. thanks again.

 

Don't feel like you're the only one who has trouble understanding an electrical problem, because most people today can't look at an electrical schematic and explain how the circuit works or follow it to troubleshoot from. We all have different levels of skills. I went through a four year electrical apprenticeship program and spent the last 40 years working as an electrician on industrial motor control systems which gives me a huge advantage over you.