I went to the junkyard and pulled a computer off of the same kind of car. One of the mechanics I was talking to said that it was the computer seeing as how I wasn't getting any noid lights. Well, another guy said that all I had to do was plug and play with the new to me computer because it came off of a Camaro. I hooked it up and my problem still exists. Although the speedometer and tach act funny when you shut off the ignition switch. Was this the wrong answer on the computer? Is there a certain way it should be done so it can "learn" the car?

 

the computer would need to be the right one. do the numbers on the ecm s match?

 

ECMs are programmed specific to your vehicle. If you buy a brand new one, it has to be programmed based on your VIN#. The program will be different on different years and different engines.

It's also possible the one you got wasn't the right part. If the car you ripped it out of was pre-2000, that computer won't do you any good at all. Model years 2000-2002 used the same ECM, but different from previous years.

If it's the right part, you might be able to take the ECM by itself to the dealer and have them program it to your VIN. Dunno for sure about that, though. It might have to actually be in the car to program.

I'm not sure that the mechanic's reasoning is sound about it being a computer problem, though... Just because no lights are coming on, that doesn't mean it's the computer. Have you thoroughly checked all the wiring, especially the ones that go behind the engine? I believe there's a pack of wires behind the engine that leads to the coils, but really ALL your engine harness should be checked. Also check for disconnected grounds.

 

Possible problem with the resistor in the key/security system?

 

We've already determined it's not a VATS related issue. If it was the key resistor, it wouldn't even roll over when you try to start it, and he doesn't have the Security light.

The no-spark condition is most likely electrical. It sounds like either a gound wire or hot wire isn't making it to the coil packs, or the distributor isn't working right.

 

Sorry it took me so long to get back.

I took the car to the dealership to have it fixed. They told me that the wiring harness from the control module to the cam and crank sensors needed to be replaced. They did that and then called and said that my plugs were fouled and the oil need to be changed due to the cylinders overflowing with fuel from the car not starting. I told them to go on and do this thinking it would fix the car. They then called me back and said the car wouldn't start. They said that the control module was bad. He said it wasn't getting the right power. I had the control module tested before I took it in and it and the coil packs tested fine. He then replaced the module with another from a car they were working on and it had the same problem (ended up saving about 550 dollars.) They then told me that the timing chain had to be broken. The car started and ran for a while after the initial problem begin, which makes me think the timing chain wasn't bad. I told them this and then he got a flow chart from his service manager to follow. He followed the chart and told me that all signs pointed to the PCM. I then asked them to flash a new PCM that I had and tell me if that worked. They did that and then called me this morning and said that the car now needed a starter. I took them a starter this afternoon and they put it on. They said that it turned over for longer, but now the starter went out again. Does anyone have any ideas of something else that may be wrong?