its a honda I didnt knock it just said this is NOT a honda fourm I didnt tell you what to do with it either! so STFU and quit your cryin

 

so you got a crank, rods and pistons?

Please elaborate on "good deal"

is it used?

if so, what is the history (if you can get an honest history)
if used, what did your machinist say after inspecting the parts?

since you're going this far are you going roller cam?

 

all brand new straight from retailer, good price, the full rotating assembly.
crank
c-rods
pistons
bearings
piston rings

 

OK, so let me recap and because you're living this reality you can feel free to call me an "A-hole"," know it all", or perhaps step back and pay attention to what I ask/state

You posted you want 400-500 HP
You have a 350 block and know nothing about the block at the time of the post. Knowing nothing means you have/had no report from a machine shop after they inspected it.


You found a "great deal" on a rotating assembly with pistons/rings for .060 over.

You now are going to bore out the block .060 over because of pistons you purchased and not based on news from the machinist

You want 400-500 HP but never considered spending just a few dollars more and going with a stroker kit

to net it out, your entire build has been based upon getting a "great deal" on a set of .060 over pistons

I just want to be sure that I and others are clear.

To be frank, I have never let a piston size be the deciding factor on how I had an engine done and going forward, I would not do that as well.

Now, if I was doing a cheapo rebuild and had good parts hanging around already and they were .060 over then yes i would use them. But, that is for a cheapo rebuild and not "I want 400-500HP"

In your case, you purchased a standard stroke crank with oversized pistons.

Think for a moment, you are doing a complete rebuild/build including machine work, heads etc etc. For minimal uplift you could increase your displacement by 33 cubic inches giving you more low end torque and also be able to go down a camshaft and be more street friendly.

I'll never understand that thought process but, it's your money and Thomas Tusser was spot on.

 

to answer the original question, if its mainly going to a be a drag car with occasional street use, the forged pistons will be fine. it will be a bit noisy until the pistons warm up, then the slap will reduce. when you get it machined, the machinest should measure the piston before boring (at least a competant one will) and let him know theyre forged. otherwise, run what you got

 

If you go with the forged pistons you should let the car warm up before driving it every time. In racing we would never drive a car until it was warmed up. Piston slap at idle will cause some but not a lot of wear but piston slap while driving will knock your cylinders out of round real fast.

FYI
When we built race motors we would NEVER bore a 350 .060. If a block would not clean up at .030 it was discarded. We use to check them before they went to the machine shop. Funny part was the machine shop use to discard about 1/2 the blocks we sent as not "good enough" for a 500 HP block. When I asked the machinist why he said casting defect that would make the walls too thin even at .030" or casting defects around the main webings.

The owner of the race team set up the block requirments and testing. I wish I would have spent more time talking to the machinist. We use to build 2-4 motors a year and they would take a beating. Each one the same as the last. These where circle track cars, 6400-7200 RPM for 30 minutes at a time was the norm. They dyno'ed 515-530 HP at 6800 RPMs. 383's that ran like crap under 4000 RPMS.

 

good info however the OP has not been back for over 3 weeks so my hunch is either the project got scrapped or we were not saying what was wanted to be heard.

 

I'll bet when the bickering got started by that person who got himself banned, the OP said "sheesh, I can get this at home"!!! lol