I meant they know there stuff not me. I just followed directions. Two different sets, dumb. I looked at the cicuit for the missing diode and figured if I only need the power circuit to test the power supply circuit in the ECU then I will be fine. I hooked it up with a 120VAC to 12VDC from my pile O' chargers I have from not throwing them away. Cell phones, cordless dust busters what ever, they come in handy.

I put 12V in and needed 5V at three points on the 40 pin bulkhead where the processor plugs into what I built. The processor comes built from Megasquirt. It has a SD slot, USB 1.0, and the DB37 pin in it. I was good to go so it was time to button it up for the time being and wait for the diode to start playing with the tuning software. I also assembled the case upside down to keep that hideous logo hidden.

Another good news is today I found out that the 3rd I'm off the 12's and maybe even weekends. We are firing up third shift and now I can bail at 11:30. The downside is i'm going salary then too.

 

Going salary!!!!!!! I avoided that all the time, even refusing a promotion as it meant going salary and I knew I'd be making less per hour, even if my annual income went up. I ended up leaving that company as the pressure to take the promotion and go salary became a constant battle. I just valued my personal time too much, and knew once I went salary they'd have no reason not to add days or hours to my schedule.
If they compensate the extra hours/days with comp days, then salary is not a bad deal.

 

I will be getting a raise and they are basing it on 50hrs a week. I cant possibly be worked any harder. I think I will be losing money in the end. But the hour paid lunch and getting paid for the days I take off are nice. I know what you mean though. Salary isnt going to be a good deal. I have no choice. I made 15000 in overtime and there pissed about that. My boss is trying to sugar coat by telling me my bonuses will multiply by 5. Dunno, well see. I hate the fact I have gone company anyhow. But it helps my kids and thats all that matters.

 

If it wasn't saving the company money, they wouldn't be pushing it. It's pretty simple math for them.

 

Damon, when you get ready to use your ECU, what fuel injection hardware are you planning on using? Will you use your 383 sbc or go LS?

 

77nomad1971BB427;654381]If it wasn't saving the company money, they wouldn't be pushing it. It's pretty simple math for them.[/QUOTE]

Yeah thats for sure. I wish I were covered by the UAW at times.

 

Its going on the stroker. It will be sequential like the LS. I need to pick up a cam sensor from a vortec motor and the coils packs to make that all run right. But the good news. It it can be configured any way I like so it can be run as is for now. The reason I spent the extra money was for flexability. I could literally inject my riding lawn mower if i wanted to

 

So this new system wont work with a conventional distributor and coil, or HEI distributor? Looks like you've got more significant expenses at about $40-$45 a coil pack, plus the pickup!
Where will you mount the coil packs?

 

It will work with ANY ignition. To run sequential its impossable to do it without the coils. Funny I was working on the ignition circuit last night. Basically there are jumpers that are configured for VR, hall effect, and optical.

Heres a link to the ignition page that can explain it better. But no they are not required to run. I can run with what I have. It can be done with an old school HEI but that doesnt allow the computer to control the timing. I have a MSD Pro Billet that is a 7 pin HEI for computer controlled engines. The computer can add or pull timing at any rpm with this set up. The sequential with one coil per cylinder allows the computer to pull or add timing in every cylinder. It also allows for fuel to be done the same way. The computer needs to know where the cam is for that, requiring the Vortec cam sensor. Which is really a dizzy shaft with the sensor on the top and no plug wires. Then I'll need a way to tell what I have going on in every cylinder. That will require money as well. But again its money I planned to spend later. The plan has been to get it running as is and then accumulate the parts for the upgrade. Its still going to be less than $1100 total. Its a long way before I can run like that. I have 900 in the intake, dizzy and sensors. So about 2g is the total cost of this. Minus fuel system and mods there.
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/ignition.html#tachint

 

So which sensor are you going to use? Something like the factory Optispark, or the gear tooth sensor and prox switch?