Damn the idiot who owned my car before me for switching to the 81 Air induction styled hood, I want the one in the first picture (blue) =(.

 

Its been leaning against the garage for three years almost.

 

The shaft runs true, so does the tab. I'm worried it wont sense due to distance and speed. I can check it like i said. All this really does is let the ECU know weather the motor is on the intake or exhaust stroke.

 

Are you going to modify an old dizzy cap to cover it? I'm not sure I'd want that spinning around on top of the motor exposed.

 

If you think about it, it really doesn't matter if it's straight and true. What it does when it rotates away from the sensor is irrelevent. As long as it passes the sensor close enough to send a signal, then it should work. I'd guess the instructions for the sensor should tell you what the proximity tolerances are, so you know how close it needs to be, and how large the metal needs to be to trip it.

 

There were no instructions. I have traded emails with the MS gurus and they think I may have an issue with the sensor not working fast enough anyhow. They told me to test for voltage with the motor cranking. It on the stand right now so thats out for now. I may grab the Vortec set up. I dunno.

As for covering it. The cam spins at half the RPM as the crank. Still fast and yes the cap has been cut to fit.

Tonight I machined the balancer to fit the crank wheel. There is a small register behind the pulley that is about .125", The same at thr trigger wheel. So cutting it off I wont have to shim the rest of the pulleys out to compensate. No pics. I will get more tomorrow after getting the wheel mounted. I have some holes to drill.

 

If you want Damon, let me know specifically what you're needing and I can probably hook you up at a salvage yard by me. I know you've got places by you too but I usually bring the guy a six-pack and he let's me have a run at the yard for what I need (most things anyway.) I need to pick up a lense for my Cadi and was thinking about heading up there next week-ish. Let me know if you want me to try and grab a couple things for you.

 

I'm surprised that the techs couldn't tell you the exact clearances for the sensor/trigger, plus how big the trigger needs to be to work well. That should be something they've tested and know.

 

There are no techs Val. Not even a phone to call. Basically how Megasquirt works is there were two guys. Bowling and Grippo, they came up with the MS1 and started to sell just the board and the components to build it. Then they got bigger and stopped sell the components. There are 3 or 4 bigger suppliers int the world that sell MS. THEY now buy big lots of the boards from B+G. The suppliers (DIYautotune) gather all the little stuff and put them into packages that are labled according to the instructions. The instructions are only online. Now paperwork comes with the kit.

Now we have people who sell kits. Bowling and Grippo made the software public so anyone smart enough to change it could. So now there are a few guys in kind of a think tank that write the code to run these. They update the code from time to time when someone comes up a better way to use the ECU. Or if they find a bug in the system, that happened with the Megasquirt 3 that I have. The first runs of code had a hiccup when running really large pulse widths. There is a forum like this except stripped down and you can ask questions to the guys who know, so its not like I'm in the dark at all.

Now the problem with the sensor is that Megasquirt doent use a set od sensors like Holley or Fast. You can literally tailor the ECU to use about any sensor you want. I was trying to use a crank sensor for a cam sensor. The sensor is designed to pick up 36 moving continuously past it. I wanted to use it in a way that it sees one tooth running half as fast as the crank. I could change the gap if I wanted, no problem there. Getting the sensor to switch a such a slow speed was the concern the guys had. I dont know why that is but it was a $16 switch that was for my crank to begin with. I was just tring to make it work so I had fewer part numbers to remember. The sensor is for a 91 Ford Escort by the way. The disributer/ cam sensor is a 96 chevy truck. The IAC is from a 89 Camaro and the throttle position sensor is from Holley. Fun HUH

 

If the sensor is for a Escort, then there mucst be some data for the Escort that will tell you tolerances. I've never heard of a sensor or system that couldn't pick up properly because it was "too slow". I've had distributors tell me a certain sensor wouldn't work without a larger surface area on a trigger, or closer tolerances, but speed of the trigger was never an issue. Normally the faster the trigger moves past the sensor, the more mass or size it needs to pick it up. Or the closer it needs to be to pick it up, if it's too fast.
Guess I need to read up on this stuff and see what makes it less apt to work properly at slower speeds.