The "Slow but Steady" '78 Project Build
#702
The tank looks perfect Tim. I abandoned the Fram canister mount and Holley Blue due to lack of mounting spot. I searched here and Nasty and a lot of guys were using the bump stop mount for the pump. I had a bracket I made from stainless. The plan was to mount it to the pump and filter to it and attach that to the bumper. But during my mock up I didnt want it all hanging out the back. If someone even slightly rear ended me there would be fuel spraying everywhere. I added a cross bar on the truck for it all and went with an intank pump on the car for a couple reasons. It is quieter was the most important. I can here that Holley over the exhaust on the truck though the say if it has a return its much quieter. I figure a few gallons of gas make for good sound insulation. Here's the truck FWIW to ya.
#703
Appreciate the great comments guys, thank you all. Bob, I completely understand what you're saying about the vent hose sir. My first thought was "that looks like a rattling noise waiting to happen." I might still try and figure something else out but I tried what you suggested first actually. The issue is the filter is so much wider/rounder than the hose and when I hang it up with another piece on the end, it rests ON the floor. If I lengthen the hose, it basically hangs down like it is now. The angle I took the pic on doesn't show the Fragola clamp holding the hose to the filter, but it's on there good! Sure wouldn't mind having the extra hose/clamp for support, but I came to the conclusion that leaving it hanging down enough as to not hit the floor or be able to have enough slack to swing around was the best route to go. Still not convinced of this yet however, lol! Worst case, the filter falls off and I'm out $5. It's just a vent hose. Truly appreciate the advice/guidance sir, that's what I so desperately need on this build.
I'm diggin' what you did with the truck setup Damon. Guess I never anticipated having an issue with a mounting location for a canister filter. I see so many of these (on other types of vehicles however) at the back by the bumper, but wasn't sure where they are actually being mounted. That was exactly my concern with the potential fire hazard being right at the back. I was considering mounting it to the tail pan, therefore giving me at least the bumper in a rear end collision before getting to the filter. My logic there is if I were to be rear-ended, if it collapses the bumper, there's a much bigger "canister" inches away, i.e. fuel tank. I suppose everyone that has one of these mounted in the rear like that faces the same potential for trouble however. There's really no specific reason that it has to be so close to the tank, I could always bring a little more inward and in front of the axle? I don't understand why the sending unit line comes off the tank and faces toward the back of the vehicle. Don't want an immediate 180 bend in the hose and figured the filter back there could help avoid that. I'll just have to spend some more time under there figuring this out, one of these days. Need to get this stuff done though, don't want to be messing around with it when I'm ready to put the engine/trans in. Thanks again everybody!
I'm diggin' what you did with the truck setup Damon. Guess I never anticipated having an issue with a mounting location for a canister filter. I see so many of these (on other types of vehicles however) at the back by the bumper, but wasn't sure where they are actually being mounted. That was exactly my concern with the potential fire hazard being right at the back. I was considering mounting it to the tail pan, therefore giving me at least the bumper in a rear end collision before getting to the filter. My logic there is if I were to be rear-ended, if it collapses the bumper, there's a much bigger "canister" inches away, i.e. fuel tank. I suppose everyone that has one of these mounted in the rear like that faces the same potential for trouble however. There's really no specific reason that it has to be so close to the tank, I could always bring a little more inward and in front of the axle? I don't understand why the sending unit line comes off the tank and faces toward the back of the vehicle. Don't want an immediate 180 bend in the hose and figured the filter back there could help avoid that. I'll just have to spend some more time under there figuring this out, one of these days. Need to get this stuff done though, don't want to be messing around with it when I'm ready to put the engine/trans in. Thanks again everybody!
#704
I used a one hole strap that wraps around the filter and screwed to the sheet metal frame or floor pan. It just holds the filter tight, and most parts stores have a clamp for fuel filters on the shelf.
I have the fuel filter and pump mounted below the tank in the rear, and that's the most common place to have them. I use an oil pressure safety switch tied to the engine oil pressure so the pump will quit if the engine dies. In an accident the engine doesn't always stop running, but usually does, so a pressure switch is a good safety feature.
Holley 12 810 Safety Fuel Pressure Switches 5 PSI Minimum HLY12 810 | eBay
I also have a bypass switch across the safety switch, in case I need to run the pump and not run the engine on a rare occasion.
I have the fuel filter and pump mounted below the tank in the rear, and that's the most common place to have them. I use an oil pressure safety switch tied to the engine oil pressure so the pump will quit if the engine dies. In an accident the engine doesn't always stop running, but usually does, so a pressure switch is a good safety feature.
Holley 12 810 Safety Fuel Pressure Switches 5 PSI Minimum HLY12 810 | eBay
I also have a bypass switch across the safety switch, in case I need to run the pump and not run the engine on a rare occasion.
#706
"Below the tank in the rear" - but mounted to what Vall? Just curious. I'm not using an electric pump at this point so the switch is not really an option for me but a good idea nonetheless.
The valve cover breather is a pretty good idea also Damon, no open end to worry about stuff getting into. I got that snazzy $5 chrome filter off Ebay specifically for the vent tube. I honestly am not going to give that breather setup much more thought unless it rattles. It's mounted securely. Since you brought up valve cover breathers, I have a question. I bought 2 V.C. breathers for the 327 but understand I should probably be using either a pcv valve in one of the breather holes in the cover or a different breather with built in pcv. Is there a type of vc breather that doesn't require the use of a pcv valve and hose to the carb? Pretty sure I've seen others not using a pcv valve and was just curious. Not really diggin' these breathers that I got anyway so before I waste more money I thought I'd ask.
The valve cover breather is a pretty good idea also Damon, no open end to worry about stuff getting into. I got that snazzy $5 chrome filter off Ebay specifically for the vent tube. I honestly am not going to give that breather setup much more thought unless it rattles. It's mounted securely. Since you brought up valve cover breathers, I have a question. I bought 2 V.C. breathers for the 327 but understand I should probably be using either a pcv valve in one of the breather holes in the cover or a different breather with built in pcv. Is there a type of vc breather that doesn't require the use of a pcv valve and hose to the carb? Pretty sure I've seen others not using a pcv valve and was just curious. Not really diggin' these breathers that I got anyway so before I waste more money I thought I'd ask.
#707
Ahh, the "evil emissions" PCV valve. I have a combination breather PCV on my one valve cover, and a regular breather on the other. The name, Positive Crankcase Ventilation says it all. It pulls out the harmful and corrosive blowby combustion gases from the crankcase that could otherwise contaminate your oil and engine innards. Just plain breathers aren't good enough. PCV valve... get the emissions thoughts out of your head, you definitely want to use one.
#708
It's got nothing to do with not wanting to use one, hence the reason why I asked. My question was regarding ways to accomplish that without having a valve/hose to the carb. When I think of the term(s) "breather" and "ventilation" they seem quite similar to me. I have to get new ones anyway, just didn't know if there was a way to have sufficient ventilation using a certain type of breather.
#710
I was referring to my gasser on the pump/filter location, and it's mounted to the frame. I didn't have a electric pump on the Camaro, so my filter was mounted above the axle on the inside frame rail for that car.
I run two valve cover breathers and a PCV valve on my cars. The better an engine breathes and evacuates the crankcase, the more power your engine will make. A PCV valve is one of the few modern additions that really helps any engine.
I run two valve cover breathers and a PCV valve on my cars. The better an engine breathes and evacuates the crankcase, the more power your engine will make. A PCV valve is one of the few modern additions that really helps any engine.