I'm going to give it hell today. Need to get some more shop towels to soak up drips and refill the LP first though. Truly hoping that I can get those lines to stop leaking, and quickly today. Another big concern is one of the plug fittings. The rear is by far the biggest of the leaks. Seeing as it's just a plug, could I use tape on that one? Wouldn't mind even buying a new fitting while I'm out today but alas, don't know the exact size and I will buy the wrong one for sure. Can't really take it with me at this point either without an even bigger mess. Gotta be a way to get this taken care of today, this was supposed to be the easy part! Then again, it just might be. Haven't even gotten into the other lines yet to see if they leak too. Staying positive, staying positive.

 

No tape or thread sealant will work. The fittings seal at the male and female tapers of the flare, not the threads of the fitting that holds it.

 

Male and female tapers of the flare? The one I was asking about is just a threaded plug fitting, no lines. I'm probably still confused. Can't tighten this any more than it is so not sure what could help get it to seal.

 

Oh, I thought you were still on the subject of your lines. What does the back side of the plug look like, is there a tapered seat to it?

 

Took a long time today but I managed to get about 95% done with the brakes today. I had gotten all the leaks to stop finally so I got busy bleeding the lines. Found another leak where the front/rear line connects to the hydraulic hose. Fixed that one and kept on bleeding. On the drivers side caliper, the bleeder screw wanted to leak from the bottom of the threads whenever I loosened it. I had fluid coming out of the bleeder but couldn't barely loosen it before it poured out of the bottom of the threads. It was a little strange, the other side didn't do that so I got that one done also. I was literally on the last couple of pedal pumps and I look up and see the same darn line leaking on the mc! I know that line is for the front brakes but it didn't leak the entire time I was bleeding the other 3 corners. Anyway, for the most part, the brakes are done. Gotta be close to getting that line to stop leaking, my fear is that I reintroduce air into the line when I try to loosen/retighten it. So close... Pedal was nice and firm when I wrapped up this evening though!

*Random Question Time* I'd like to sell the front buckets out of the Camaro but unsure of a reasonable asking price. Would need recovering, seams coming apart like most others out there. I'll check on Ebay but doubt shipping would be worthwhile for anyone so probably need to sell locally. Just curious what the going rate is on the buckets in good shape other than needing recovered. I can post pics but just looking for ballpark/ranges anyway. Actually, same thing with these rockin' 14" turbine beauties that are taking up space in the garage now! Rims are in superb shape though! LOL

 

Forgot to ask - Can someone/anyone please enlighten me as to how the brake light plunger thingy is supposed to be set? There's 2 of 'em up there, the one in the pic (that's visible) doesn't actually have anything plugged into it like the other one above it does. I'm assuming that it needs to be screwed in farther so it's depressed when the pedal is not, is that correct? I want to get this stuff buttoned up so I can move on. As always, I'd be eternally grateful for the sharing of one's knowledge regarding this! Thanks in advance.
Looking at that pic sickens me a little knowing all that stuff needs to get removed and cleaned up/replaced one of these upcoming years. It's nasty under there.

 

The switch for the brake light is set so it's touching the pedal enough for the brake lights to be interrupted when it's sitting static, and then as you step on the pedal it releases the switch and the lights come on. Not sure what a 2nd switch would be or do, as I've never had a Chevy with two switches.
I see used 2nd gen buckets on local CL that need reupholstered, and they are usually asking from $75-$150 a pair. I doubt they sell at the high end very often, as they're not that rare around here yet.
I fought brake line leaks on my Austin for a month after I was driving it. All at the two front lines to each caliper! All factory fittings, and SS too! They would stay dry during bleeding, and use, and then a week or so of occasional driving and I'd see a small drop of fluid! I'd tighten the fittings more, and it would stop, and then appear again! I thought I'd snap the fittings off before I got the drip stopped, but they finally quit.
You'll probably want to check each fitting for the first few weeks after you start driving, and retighten them if you feel any dampness. Don't worry about getting air in the lines from just loosening and retightening the line fittings. Unless you took them completely off, they wont suck air into the system.

 

The second switch at the brake pedal would be the release for cruise control. Your vintage is more likely to be a vacuum "through switch" that breaks the connection to the vacuum canister/cable unit under the hood, and releases the linkage at the carb. This is how my old 78 & 79 Vettes worked. Do you see any vacuum hoses dangling up there? That would also explain why there are no wires to it.

 

No vacuum hoses left Chuck, but you're correct sir. I had to sit and rethink what was going on under there with the two switches. I never removed the vacuum hose from the switch but it is for the cruise. When I was trying frantically to fix the no charge/super hot alternator issue I went through and tried to figure out what everything was. I'm going to take that one out. I actually have a brand new switch for non-cruise cars that I'll install in place of the other one too. The plug is just in a different spot on the new one, it's off the back of it. The one that's in there has the plug coming off the side of it. I'll get a pic or two to show what I mean but since I have to mess with it anyway to adjust it, might as well just put the new one in there. Thanks for the clarification on the operation Vall, I was assuming that's how it had to work. I can get it in there and at least close, just another thing to have to go back and double check/adjust when there's actually power to the lights. I need to tighten down the nut on the back of the booster rod that goes to the pedal assembly today as well as the nut on the pedal that holds the bracket for the switch plunger. I'll throw that new switch in while I'm under there and can hopefully move on after a little loosening/retightening of that stubborn MC line. Time to get the fuel tank installed and the rear bumper/cover put back on. Need to get that stuff out of the way and reclaim the spot in the garage for the truck. Gonna have my hands full for a while working on that darn Ford exhaust manifold leak and need the garage space to do it.

 

Ended up spending more time raking leaves today than I did working on the Camaro but I did get the brakes finished up. We'll see how long it goes without leaking but when I turned the lights off tonight, nothing was leaking. Got the pedal stuff taken care of and removed the two switches we were talking about. Again, you were right Chuck, one has a vacuum port on the back. The actual light switch has spots for 2 plugs but only one was connected. I put the new one in and hope the lights work where it's at. It's in as far is it'll go so I sure hope so! Anyone know what the other plug would be for on this old switch? Part of the cruise also maybe? Didn't see any other plugs up under the dash but didn't look too terribly hard for one either.

Here's a couple pics of where I had to shove the brake line through above the sfc like I was talking about too. I see there's still more touch up that needs to be done but I'm glad that's over with!