If you're making up your own lines these flare nuts will be what you need. They only come in 10 packs, so you'll have way too many, but they're $5 for ten of them:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...0140/overview/

When I did it, I bought these hard lines complete, then cut the radiator end off, flared it slightly to help hold a hose, and then used hose to connect to the cooler. Much easier, cleaner, and made to fit your car exactly.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-ftc8003/overview/

 

Would those flare nuts work on this 1/2" braided stainless hose I have? I had bought the prebent steel cooler lines and returned them already. I'm only using an aux cooler and wanted to use this leftover braided hose from the trans to the cooler. My plan was to just get a few more fittings like I'm using for the fuel line but not sure of the correct sizes. Is the hole size in the trans 5/16"? I really like these nickel fittings I got from Summit (Summit brand) for the fuel lines and was just trying to stick with what I already have. It's not crucial but the cost is right for those fittings.

 

Didn't see the last post on the prior page, sorry about that. Disregard that last post.

 

You'll probably want braided hose type fittings in one of the two thread sizes I mentioned. Depends on whether you want to go straight into the trans, or into the existing brass fittings.
I know you want to use up the braided line, since you have it. I'm just not a big fan of running long lengths of flexible line myself.

 

The issue here is whichever way I decide to go, I'll be buying new fittings. I already have braided hose which I completely understand is bigger than what I would normally want to use. I'm not using long lengths of it though, maybe 2' max from the trans to the cooler. It still might end up cheaper to buy more 3/8 braided hose than buying fittings, reducers, couplers etc. I was just trying to see if I could get fittings that would work on this 1/2" and into the trans either direct or through the brass fittings that I bought already and installed into the case. Didn't realize it was 1/2" inverted flare into the case. Ideally, I'd like to find braided fittings to take the hose directly into the case and cooler. The cooler has 1/4" ports so I just wasn't sure if it would cause any problems going from larger hose into smaller ports, it would be that way for both. If I can find fittings that'll work, that's what I was originally asking about. My problem is I always manage to get the wrong size the first time around!

 

It's not 1/2" inverted flare into the case. That's the size of the fitting that's screwed into the hole in the case. The holes are 1/4" NPT, as I mentioned previously. You can get hose barb fittings to go from 1/4"NPT to 1/2" hose, if you want to use the braided line.
A Dixon BN42 is a couple dollars, or check your local hardware store for one. Most Ace Hardware carry them.


You can start with 1/2" hose and get sleeve inserts to downsize at the cooler to 1/4". The sleeves can be a sealing issue sometimes, so you need to really clamp them down to seal, or go to a reducer from 1/2"-1/4" at the cooler. The reducers look like a barb fitting butt splice, but 1/2" on one end and 1/4" on the other. They will definitely seal, but also add more fittings to the system.

 

Apologies for misinterpreting what you said about the hole size in the trans case. Guess I need to pull the brass fitting out again and look at them. For some reason I've had it in my head that those holes are bigger than 1/4". I won't belabor this any longer here, it's just my stubbornness acting up. I'll most likely just break down and order some more 3/8" hose and just get some fittings for that and be done with it. It's tough enough as it is to have to buy all these parts that I'll actually use. Hate the thought of having all this 1/2" hose that I wasted money on just sitting here. Appreciate the clarification on the sizes of everything. Don't know why I was having such a hard time figuring out what size they were, I just remember the brass fitting end being bigger than that? Onward...

Got the new front-to-rear brake line dropped off already today so now I can button those up and get to some bleeding! I will have to go on a hunt for a bleeder kit since I didn't get one with the new MC, surprise surprise. Oh yeah, and some brake fluid!

 

*Helpful Tip* - For anyone considering the addition of sub frame connectors on their Camaro, REPLACE THE FRONT TO REAR BRAKE LINE NOW! Don't wait until after the sfc's are installed to decide you need a new brake line. It is possible to have the new line go over the sfc but then it will be hanging off the bottom of it, and to me, that's no good. I spent a great deal of time yesterday afternoon straightening the pre-bent brake line to feed it through a space about 1/2" wide between the floor and sfc and then had to re-bend it back the way it was. The spot where the brake line makes a bend about half way to the rear, there is a clamp and then it 90's over toward the center and bends back. Not a good time, did a number of the freshly painted bottom but it had to be done. Yes, I could've just dropped the leaf spring perch and sfc but after just getting them installed I wasn't going to chance breaking more J-clips to do it. I'll post a pic or two of what I'm talking about later on. I got it all done and all lines are connected now. Just have to either buy some new brake line mounting clamps or clean up some of the old ones. Got the MC/prop valve bench bled and on the Camaro. By the time I finished with the front/rear line installation is was in the 20's outside (dark already) and the heater wasn't cutting it anymore. Always somethin'.

Any tips for getting the inside of the fuel tank cleaned out? There's just a tiny bit of fuel in there and I'm sure some rust chunks from removing the old sending unit. Just want to try to get what I can out of there before reinstalling it. Don't think there's enough in there to use a siphon pump.

 

1/4" NPT thread size is actually way bigger than 1/4", as that's the nominal ID of the pipe. The hole looks huge, because it's probably around 1/2" to fit a 1/4" NPT into it.

 

Brake lines are a pain on an assembled car, but not always options to do otherwise. I usually buy straight lines with the ends on them and bend them up with my cheap tubing bender, or just make the lines from scratch. As you discovered, it's easier to get done if the lines start out straight. I use those insulated line straps with rubber inside, and self tapping screws to mount the straps to the frame.
I've tried several things to get a tank clean, including ball bearings shaken around, clean gravel, and cleaners. Nothing gets it all out, and some of the stuff I tried turned into a worse nightmare to get back out after I tossed it in! The best thing I could suggest is to pour a can of Seafoam in with whatever fuel is left in it, and swish it around. Then let is sit overnight, and pour out the next day. Whatever is left of the Seafoam/gas mix wont hurt once you add fresh gas to it. I'd put a good inline filter ahead of the fuel pump and things should be fine. If there's a lot of rust, I'd just replace the tank.