Yes, I would say you hit the pin on the head Vall. The pedal has a pressed in clevis pin, my vintage has a removable one.

 

I see what you're saying Vall, I didn't have an informed opinion but only what others were saying. I figured I must be wrong since Chuck chimed in! However, I took his subliminal advice and "hit it on the head" a few times and out it came. And before it gets said, no, I didn't damage anything in the process! Thanks again for the pictorial info, I didn't look at parts places, only prior posts on the installation of new boosters. I got the wiring done for the blower relay/resistor and in loom. Got the "new" brake line ordered for front/back and actually put the back wheels/tires on! I'm getting closer and closer to sending that 327 home! Can't wait. I learned also that the ignition box is going to have to go inside now as there's not enough clearance above the delete box for it to fit, not a big deal but not what I was planning.

 

You know I had to remove one and knew they were pressed in. I'm sorry I gave you bad advise on that one. The cotter comes out and the rod from the booster slides off. I should have remembered that I just messed with it on the truck too. Dooh! Thats what I get for working and texting I guess?

 

Not quite sure how I'm supposed to take that comment! lol

 

Don't read into it too deep, I'm just happy to hear from you sir! It's hard to signify sarcasm other than with those cheesy smilies. I'm not the type to ask for insight or clarity about something I'm unsure of and then proceed to argue it. When 2 are telling me differently than what I understand to be true, I must not be correct. Whether the pin is pressed in or slid in, it's out now. Would not have wanted to remove the pedal assembly, doesn't look fun to try and get at the nuts or whatever it is holding it in. Onward and upward!

Might as well ask another question while I'm on here. Curious if I can connect the red feed wire coming from that 30 amp self reset breaker that I was asking about earlier differently. The wire that connects right center of the firewall and feeds the blower relay (think it's called the a/c feed wire) but comes from the breaker and joins the two wires together and has another red feed wire that I believe goes to the starter but connects at the same point? I don't want that big bulky connector for just two wires plus the original connector has a chunk missing from it. I'm planning on adding a distribution block somewhere in that area, but out of sight. I'll have a couple more wires to find a connection for when I install the ignition box and I want to keep things neat now. Apologize for the run-on sentences and it would probably be easier if I added a pic or two but hopefully you guys know what I'm referring to.

 

I think the wire that comes from the starter is basically picking up voltage as part of the charging circuit, or voltage sensing? You can relocate a new splice terminal anywhere you want, and just put the same wires back together at that point. Be careful what you add to a splice block, unless the things you add are separately fused. Wouldn't want to install a terminal block and tap light loads if the feed size is heavily fused.

 

I believe you are correct in that the wire from the starter is/was part of the charging circuit. I figured it was feeding power to the 2 other wires that were originally for the a/c and ran to that circuit breaker that ends with the orange wire that goes in and supplies power for the power windows and locks. I might wait until I get the harness plugged back into the bulkhead connector. There are the other feed wires that were all connected with that small band clamp in the same area. I thought about using (because I already have it) a small 6 fuse block and just attaching it to the underside of the firewall in the same area as these wires are now. Just looking to tidy everything up and a good place to tap in for ignition box power also. I need to pick up a small ground block for the same area as well. I'll get some pics up and most likely ask for some assurance before diving in.

 

Run the box to the battery. You'll need every available amp.

 

I gotcha Damon, I was more referring to the other "power" wire for the box that I'm going to run to a lighted toggle switch inside, not the main power wire. That'll get run off the battery like you suggested sir. I'm getting a tad ahead of myself here but I'll be working on the ignition box soon actually. Might as well get all that stuff done before I drop the 327 in there so there's more room to maneuver around. It'd be nice to have everything ready to just plug in once the engine is installed.

Got my second new fuel line delivered yesterday and this time it's actually 3/8" like I ordered the first time and didn't get. Still have this 1/2" line here that I would like to use for the trans cooler and the PS return line. Still haven't figured out what size the fitting holes are in the tranny case for the cooler lines. I bought new brass fittings for the steel cooler-radiator lines but will take those out and buy Russel-esque type fittings if I can figure it out. The new aux. cooler ports are 1/4" so I would either need adapters or fittings that will accept 1/2" hose with 1/4" fitting ends. Just don't want to have this 1/2" expensive hose go to waste because I can't find a place to use it! Maybe I can talk Vall into providing me with a link or two to some Summit brand nickel fittings that are the correct size for what I need? Not too suttle of a hint I know but hey, it's worth a shot right?

 

The stock trans lines are 5/16", but you can find barb fittings that fit the outlets for 3/8" lines. Afraid the 1/2" lines wont work for the trans, and wouldn't fit a trans cooler either, as they're mostly 3/8" inlets too.
The fittings in the trans are 1/2-20 inverted flare, and the threaded hole in the TH350 case is 1/4" NPT. So you can either get fittings to go direct into the case, or from the flare fitting that is fitted to the case. As I mentioned, the flare fitting will be 5/16"x1/2"-20 inverted flare if you use the factory 5/16" size tubing.