Sorry, I meant that I had responded, all typed up and everything on my phone and it didn't post. Not sure why, I wasn't being rude.

 

It looks like this weekend is going to be spent pulling one of the fuel lines out of my car, I don't really need the both of them, I'll get a compression to NPT fitting and cap off the ones I don't use then. Also up for installation is the rear sway bar and the sub frame connectors, and I also have to take out the hokie stacked washers that were used by the PO to use the wrong length bolts on the solid body mounts. I'll probably do one at a time, pull the mount out, sand the paint off of it from when I POR15'ed the bottom of my car and get some right bolts. I also have another set of body mounts that I think I will use to put under the subframe so that it is sandwiched between them, and put a nice grade 8 washer over the top of that.

 

I got done what I could, pulled one of the fuel lines out, I went and got new longer grade 8 bolts for the subframes, I cut the subframe to install the subframe connectors, and I pulled the two bolts out of the spring perch to install the subframe at that point. I need to get some 3/4" long spacers, and some longer bolts for back there. The rear bolt i the spring perch screws into a threaded insert, that insert broke off in there, I fished it out with a magnet, now I have to try to get a bolt up there to catch on the bolt, hopefully without needing to cut a hole in the floor of the car. If I do need to cut a hole I will drill from the bottom up and cut one just big enough to get a socket in, I probably should just do that for all of them, that little thing the bolt screws into is sort of cheesy, and the thread is that tapered thread. I need to get more bolts for the rear sway bar too, so tomorrow first thing a trip to Ace Hardware is in the works, after coffee.

 

I'm having trouble too getting the Subframe Connectors to sit flush on the spring perch, I need to either get spacers or cut them all up to get it to work...

OK, pics: There are no floorboard issues, only spring perch issues, I would need to cut the spring perch all up to get this to fit.

 

You have to cut the floor pan to use those style subframe connectors, then weld the pan to the connector.
On those holes for a socket; if you want a seal to close them afterwards you can get 3 piece KO seals. They can be easily installed or removed later and seam sealer will make them water tight.
A Dottie D40S is good to 1.25" conduit (@1.5" hole) or the smaller D30S for a hole @1.25"
Dottie - D30S, Metal K.O. Seals, Ko, Seals/Ko Bushings, Fittings - Platt Electric Supply
You can find these at an Lowes or Home Depot in the electrical section.

 

I really think the sfc goes under the spring perch, it isn't hitting the body yet. I'll get her done today I hope. Thanks for the tip, I'll be getting some of those.

 

Wow, what a day, everything I did today was a total PITA... Getting those subframe connectors on was rough, especially the first one, I scratched the heck out of everything under the car, I'll need to get under there and touch a bunch of stuff up. And getting that sway bar on... wow, that was interesting, I ended up totally messing up a U-bolt, and I went and got some that were 1.5" longer, I'll end up cutting the extra off later on.

 

Good progress. I think the 4500 stall is WAY too high. The 2400 sounded good to me. The 4500 is about worthless in a street only car. You'll absolutely hate revving to 4500 just to get the car moving.

 

He also has a 3500, I'm also more inclined to think that would be fine. The thing is I'm not too familiar with a stall converter, the guy who is doing my engine work is telling me that it doesn't work like that, he says that it drives around fine and shifts normal, but when you get on it it will jump to whatever the stall is rated at (or thereabouts) and otherwise you don't tell a difference... I'll do a bit of reading up on it and see what I can see, I really don't have anyone else to ask that I can get a straight answer out of.

 

Yes, your car will move forward and drive, even with a 3500 or 4500 stall. The issue is that the higher the stall the less pressure on your clutches at anything less than the rating of the converter. If you cruise at around 2800-3000 down the highway and your stall is 3500, then your tranny will be building up excessive heat. It will be moving you along, but not efficiently.
Heat is the #1 enemy of an automatic trans and anything you can do to eliminate it will help. It will also help mileage if you choose a converter with a stall speed that you actually drive at. I'm running a 2200 stall and have no problems with my engine trying to pull the car at idle. With 3.73 gears and 28" tires I'm turning 2900 rpm at 60 mph, so it's fully "locked up" and not creating any excess heat.