79 Camaro Project
#372
Thank you, probably nothing more major today. I'd like to maybe wipe down the doors and engine compartment to clean the dust off of it, and finish cleaning the garage up. That is a big priority, I've got a pile to go into the attic, and a pile to go to the curb. Having the car together like it is frees up alot of the garage though.
#373
I agree nasty has a weath of knoledge. Over here is where I hang out, I like the comradeship. Nasty guys some good people don't get me wrong, but if your income is not approaching 6 figures??? I just don't get alot of my questions answered.
#374
LOL, they always seem to go off into never never land. Maybe I post controversial questions? I posted a thread about 2.02 Fuelies vs. 1.94 Vortecs and which is better. From what I found in searching, the Vortecs are better, by about 9CFM, but they say around 20. And in asking about whether it is worth it to enlarge the vortecs to 2.02, wow, I am lost there. I really need to pound this engine stuff into my head so I can figure it out. It all probably just comes down to mathematical calculations when you get right down to it. Cams, Lift, Rocker Ratios, Quench, etc, I've got a bit of each, but nothing like I should. I may try and find me a race engine course or something at the junior college. The guy who runs the department is a drag racer and friend of my FIL's so I'm pretty sure there would be one...
#376
What I would ideally like to do, is pull the motor apart, and go through it. Blueprint it, and get my hands on a proper, correct build, checking everything the first time, without learning incorrectly. I've pulled heads off before and swapped out gaskets, changed lifters etc. Basically topend up stuff before, but never anything more.
#377
It's a bit scarey the first time, but if you're patient you'll do fine. Just don't get in a hurry and proceed to the next step without some good assistance and input. The first engine I built was a 283 in my old '55 Chevy gasser. I had never had an engine farther down than just the intake, or head gaskets. I read all the books I could, but still made errors in hindsight.
I rebuilt it with stock crank and new rod and main bearings. Just looked at the journals and figured they looked fine, so I didn't mic them or plastigauge them. Just put the bearings on with lube. Saw no ridge on the cylinders, so went stock on the rings and ran a hone down the bores and dropped the pistons in. Never even knew you were supposed to check ring end gap.
Bought a rebuilt pair of old camel hump 1.94" fueler heads and slapped them on too. A old Corvette dual quad intake with two AFB's and dropped the engine back in the '55 Chevy. I overlooked so many checks and procedures, but somehow it worked, and I was lucky. The engine ran great, and was one of the fastest SBC engines I've ever owned! Just stupid beginner's luck, but the '55 ran the 1/4 in times that were so fast I got teched on two occasions from competitors that didn't think it was a 283, or not a stock bore and stroke 283.
Hopefully you've got a friend or relative that can give you input when you're building the engine, but either way I'd reccommend you buy a copy of "How to Hotrod Small Block Chevys". It's full of great info on what to do, or not do to make a SBC run well. Also has tips on assembly that will keep you from making errors.
On the Vortecs I wouldn't bother with 2.02 valves unless you need new valves anyway. I also wouldn't spend the money it costs to balance and blueprint an engine. If everything is checked, sized, align bored, and properly assembled, you'll have a great running engine that will make plenty of HP for you're car.
I rebuilt it with stock crank and new rod and main bearings. Just looked at the journals and figured they looked fine, so I didn't mic them or plastigauge them. Just put the bearings on with lube. Saw no ridge on the cylinders, so went stock on the rings and ran a hone down the bores and dropped the pistons in. Never even knew you were supposed to check ring end gap.
Bought a rebuilt pair of old camel hump 1.94" fueler heads and slapped them on too. A old Corvette dual quad intake with two AFB's and dropped the engine back in the '55 Chevy. I overlooked so many checks and procedures, but somehow it worked, and I was lucky. The engine ran great, and was one of the fastest SBC engines I've ever owned! Just stupid beginner's luck, but the '55 ran the 1/4 in times that were so fast I got teched on two occasions from competitors that didn't think it was a 283, or not a stock bore and stroke 283.
Hopefully you've got a friend or relative that can give you input when you're building the engine, but either way I'd reccommend you buy a copy of "How to Hotrod Small Block Chevys". It's full of great info on what to do, or not do to make a SBC run well. Also has tips on assembly that will keep you from making errors.
On the Vortecs I wouldn't bother with 2.02 valves unless you need new valves anyway. I also wouldn't spend the money it costs to balance and blueprint an engine. If everything is checked, sized, align bored, and properly assembled, you'll have a great running engine that will make plenty of HP for you're car.
#378
Don't quote me, but I believe the vortecs need the guide turned down for anything over .460" lift. Its not really a spring issue as its a retainer to valve guide interferance deal. Too much lift and things start running into each other.
#379
I've heard the same Damon. Seems the only drawback to Vortecs is their restriction to high lift cams without modification to clear them. Plus the fact they use center bolts, which I'm not too fond of astheticly. I'd probably use adapters to convert them to std, valve covers if I used them.
#380
Had this in my faves. Might be a little info in there you can use.
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...458/index.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/ho...458/index.html