I am always happy to hear that you are having fun with your 572. And thanks for being honest about going to FI. As well congrats for the baby..... Lots of sleepless nights I guess. I have been through it and still going through it right now cause now my Daugherty is sleeping alone in her new "big" bed.

You said twin turbo - you mean twin turbo 572?? That goes up to 1500HP if not more!! But for a TT 572 you need at least 40K. That is absolutely out of my budget.

A fuel injected 572 costs around 24K. Still out of my budget. I have to stick to the 572 Normally Aspirated.

 

No i would have gone with a twin turbo LS based motor, something from Nelson racing engines, somewhere around 900-1000hp. Would have been an extra 15k or so.

 

Yes would be very nice as well TT LS. Still out of my reach... I will stay with the 572 now that I have the headers for that particular engine and planning for that. Fuel consumption for me is not that big much of an issue, having said that I will only go out with my cars twice a month maybe 100 Km a month, not more than that. For me the pleasure of the car will be burnouts and some cursing.

Today came father Christmas for me. I received the Bear big brakes kit from USA. It is an awesome kit, ready to be bolted on to the front frame and rear end (when in hand). 14" front and 13" rear. Beautiful kit, attached is one front Bear assy.

As well I received the headers from Lemon for the 572. Looks pretty nice as well, attached pictures.

CPP hydro boost will give enough pressure for the Bear brakes, attached is the CPP hydroboost.

And the power master starter.

 

Very, very, very nice

 

Yes nice products, thank you. Can't wait to see them on the camaro...... maybe in 2 years time...... Now I need to order the 9" Moser rear end.

Here I have an issue where I need a good advise and help cause I don't want to screw this up!!!!!

For the rear, I ordered the triangulated 4 link kit including the coil overs and the weld on axle brackets from Ridetech. Therefore I am not using the original spring perches on the new Moser rear end.

Do I need to order the rear end without the original spring perches and then I weld the weld on axle brackets myself?

The location of the original spring perches on the tube axle and the location of the weld on axle brackets on the tube axle are not the same. The weld on brackets are located an inch or so to the inside of the original spring perches location to accommodate the offset of the 4 link lower bars.

Attached are the photo of the weld on brackets (ridetech).

http://s22.postimg.org/7mj1u49gh/wel...le_bracket.jpg

This is another photo of my rear end with the original spring perches and the bolt on bracket which comes with the ridetech kit (which I am replacing) where it shows the offset to the inside.

 

If you ordered weld on bracket kit for the triangulated 4 link, then you want an axle with no brackets at all, or "clean" as we call them. Should also save you a little money buying a clean axle, as they are cheaper without any brackets.

 

Can't help us here I used stock suspension with stock axle width when I ordered mine.

 

Ok thanks, no problems

 

So if I have to weld the brackets my self to the new rear end, at which angle to the pinion shall these brackets be welded?

Should the angle between the horizontal axis of the pinion shaft and the vertical axis of the brackets be 90 degrees to each other?

 

There's no way I can give you angles and dimensions for your brackets, as I have no way of knowing the ride height, or pinion angles your setup will have. I can however give you the info on how I would do it, when I set mine up.
You will need to put all four tires and wheels on the car to set up ride height. The rear will need to be sitting on blocks, and the car up on stands to simulate the ride height you want. Then all the links assembled loosely to simulate how they will situate in the car. Figure out the driveline angle from the transmission to the rear axle, and then set the pinion angle on the rear axle to match the transmission angle. Once you have both angles set, you can then set the brackets on the axle and adjust links to where they align when it is all set up. Tack weld the brackets to the axle, and then unbolt the links and drop the axle out. Weld everything up outside the car, being extremely careful not to run long beads on the brackets, as it's easy to warp the axle tubes, and pull a new axle out of alignment. If you have any question about your ability to weld in the brackets on the axle or frame, get it tacked, and let a certified welder do the final welding.
After everything is welded up, and you can test fit it again; you can do final fine tuning with the rod ends to get it all perfected. A 4 link is a nice setup, but they aren't something that can be just welded up and tossed in place. You'll most likely have the rear in and out 3-4 times by the time it's done, and painted.