632ci engine installation in 78 camaro

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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 02:31 PM
  #371  
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
But I'd also be more inclined to go with the 572 GM crate engine too.
Why? What is the difference and/or comparison between the two engines?

Maybe GMP will be more street friendly than the other?

Thanks
 
Old Jul 5, 2014 | 07:55 AM
  #372  
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The biggest difference is the warranty. Have you asked NRE what their warranty is when used on the street? Probably very short, if at all. I doubt the two engines produce much different HP, and whether you could use all the HP of either. But I'm pretty sure there's a price difference too, and with warranty and price savings, I'd go the GM 572.
 
Old Jul 5, 2014 | 10:45 AM
  #373  
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Well the price is about 15,500 and the warranty is 2 years if I remember correctly. But I will check.

What is the carb of the GM572?? It is not 1050 Dominator?

What is your prefer instead of 1050 dominator for the street?
 
Old Jul 5, 2014 | 04:58 PM
  #374  
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There are 4150's that flow close to 1000 cfm. The GMPP motor will come with a 850. The MSRP is over 17k but I havent looked around for pricing. The warranty is 2yr unlimited miles and do what you will. Race it whatever if it breaks they replace it.

The last line is priceless!INSTALLATION NOTES
Due to crate fitment, the carburetor is shipped in a separate box and needs to be installed by an engine installer
Clutch linkage boss is now drilled and tapped. When using cast-iron exhaust manifolds, lower head bolts may need to be replaced with bolts with shorter heads for clearance
Requires addition of starter and fuel pump (not included)
Gen VI tall-deck block has machined mechanical fuel pump boss
Comes with a 14" automatic transmission flexplate. Requires internally balanced flywheel for manual transmission applications
Designed for pre-1976 street vehicles or any off-road vehicle
Not intended for marine applications
You do have a strong transmission and rear axle, don’t you?
 
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 09:01 AM
  #375  
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Originally Posted by 77nomad
There are 4150's that flow close to 1000 cfm. The GMPP motor will come with a 850. The MSRP is over 17k but I havent looked around for pricing. The warranty is 2yr unlimited miles and do what you will. Race it whatever if it breaks they replace it.

The last line is priceless!INSTALLATION NOTES
Due to crate fitment, the carburetor is shipped in a separate box and needs to be installed by an engine installer
Clutch linkage boss is now drilled and tapped. When using cast-iron exhaust manifolds, lower head bolts may need to be replaced with bolts with shorter heads for clearance
Requires addition of starter and fuel pump (not included)
Gen VI tall-deck block has machined mechanical fuel pump boss
Comes with a 14" automatic transmission flexplate. Requires internally balanced flywheel for manual transmission applications
Designed for pre-1976 street vehicles or any off-road vehicle
Not intended for marine applications
You do have a strong transmission and rear axle, don’t you?
Hi, found this very helpful Holley Interactive Carburetor Selector

You enter all the required values and assist you in selecting the right carb for your car. When I entered all the values, I ended up with 950 CFM (street strip carb 0-8295-1) with mechanical secondaries. Could not find any with vacuum secondaries (although vacuum scondareis are used mainly for A/M transmission). As well gave me 1050 CFM (4 barrel race carburettor 0-9375-1) as well mechanical secondaries.

Having said that, working the formula for CFM and depending which Volum Efficiency I select will end up 850CFM when using V.E 85% (for the street) while 1090 CFM when usine V.E 110% (for race).

CFM = (CID X MAX RPM X V.E) / 3456

With the above calculations (if correct) I will agree with all of your comments about 1050 for the street. 1050 is not for the street but for race while 950 is more for the street/strip.

My question will be this - If Vacuum secondaries is more likely to be used on A/M Transmissions and could not find one for my application, will a mechanical secondaties be correct?

What is MSRP?? Sorry did not understand you.
 
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 09:53 AM
  #376  
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MSRP-Manufacturer's suggested retail price.
I don't think there's a thing wrong with a mechanical secondary carburetor, and a 4150 series in a 850 cfm or 950 cfm would work great I think. Since that's what comes with it, then that would be a good choice.
A quick search on Google shows many companies that sell the GM 572 for under $14,000 so the MSRP will always be higher than what they sell for. I found a couple that were a bit over $13,000.
 
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 10:18 AM
  #377  
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Its an American thing. You cant watch TV here with out hearing a car commercial with MSRP being mentioned. I would run a mechanical secondary. The biggest reason I like the Gm motor are the warranty. It wasnt just thrown out as a yup I can make HP crate motor. I'm not saying the NSE motor is at any point going to be a bad engine. What I do see is an engine that will require constant fiddling to keep it in tune. Their "streetable" claim can vary from your's or my definition of streetable.

I see streetable as well it idles in traffic and it doesnt stall when I come to a stop. Does it idle at 1000 rpm or more? I dont know val personally but we have chatted enough for me to know is definition is something like can I cruise it? Does it go down the highway? I live in a smaller town and can get from one side to the other in a race car with licence plates. Really! I took a ride last night in a 700hp Eagle Talon! 32lbs of boost and a 75 shot getting it going was a trip to the car wash I'll never forget. i have been tuning a TT LSX motor for a month now and we ride with a tool box for adjustments. This is how I see life with the NRE motor. Constantly on the phone to them when its not right to see what they suggest. A screwdriver in your pocket constantly, dont forget it will put a hole in your seat! Tuning the carb to deal with humidity and elevation changes. Dominators are finicky. The carb GMPP engine has one thing that the Domi will never ever have... a choke! Worth its weight in gold sometimes.

They probably spent more to refine that combination than the entire net worth of NRE. It plain runs, I have seen them. On Power Tour GM had a chase vehicle that could diagnose and fix these things like they were Matchbox cars. I have a buddy, really a work friend that has the older ZZ502 in his 68 and that motor has been flogged mad. Flawless! I mean flawless from the time it went in 15yrs ago. 500hp on tap all day. Fun car.

Manufacturers
Suggested
Retail
Price
 
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 01:14 PM
  #378  
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I'm pretty flexible on my idea of streetable, but then I don't go far from home without my emergency tool bag in my cars. I want a car that runs great, and doesn't overheat. How it idles is very important, as far as not stalling. Don't really care if it idles like a new V6, or shakes the windows, as long as it keeps idling!
I don't want an engine that constantly fouls plugs, or constantly requires tuning. I want a car that can drive hundreds of miles without opening the hood. If I had to chose between a fairly stock vehicle that was reliable, and one that was faster than anything on the street, but constantly needing attention; I'd chose the stock one. Hopefully what I try to build is something in between, that is pretty darn quick, and only needs a checkup once in awhile. My Falcon is pushing the limits for my comfort, but still tweaking little things to get it exactly where I want it.
 
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 03:01 PM
  #379  
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Guys, I really do not have words what to say..... I know and really appreciate your honest on this.

I always dreamt and still dreaming about NRE engine. What I can and will do is to find a compromise and to have a street engine and not a race engine - such as carb size and model, idle speed.

Yes I noticed that Dominator do not have choke. You have to warm up the engine with your gas pedal (not nice)
 
Old Jul 6, 2014 | 04:38 PM
  #380  
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Just starting it without a choke can be fun. Flooding can happen.
 



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