Neither of my cars have chokes, and I've never had issues with starting either. They both fire immediately, and only occasionally die if I don't keep the rpm's up for a couple minutes. I can tell you that both are very cold blooded for the first 5-7 minutes, and without a choke they stumble, and beg to be left to idle. I can rev them, and play with the throttle to get going quicker, and they will warm up quicker. But they buck, and fight being pushed to get going before they are fully warmed up.

 

Where I live in the fall you cant get by hardly. You will sit in the car until warm, you will also feather the pedal if you choose to drive. LOL I had a couple trucks with bad chokes that were fun on icy mornings but thats totally different. It seams to me that my Proform takes a good three to five pumps were the Eddy on my truck is one and done. Eddy had a choke and the Proform on my 383 doesnt even have a choke horn. They have the same intake basically, one is an RPM and the other is an Air Gap but the RPM has the center milled like the Air Gaps do. Even on a hot day the 383 needs a lot to get going.

 

Ok guys, so no choke will not be a problem. Lets go back to when we say an engine for street use:-

You know what I mean when I say only for the street and no "racing (in a strip)" with my car.

What are the issues an engine need to have in order to be good for the street and be drivable behind traffic? Ex idling? (do not know exaclty how to explain my self on this)

Nomad you mentioned some things before in your reply maybe you can explain it better pls.

Thanks

 

Brakes.....Does anyone heard about or know some one that is using this CPP hydroboost master cylinder system? It works by hydraulic pressure tapping from the steering pump. Kits includes all the hardware required to connect this setup. It has in build proportioning valve so I do not need to use my stock one.

Disc Brake, Steering and Suspension Products for classic Chevy and Ford cars and trucks ?

My stock combination valve leaks and needs to be replaced (and looks ugly as well). Does anyone know from I can find to purchase a stock combination valve for the 78 camaro?

Thanks

 

Summit. Hydroboost is fine. I have parts to do mine but havent grabbed a booster yet.

 

Haven't seen the CPP unit, but I see lots of guys doing hydro boost conversion using Chevy Astro van parts. The CPP is a better looking unit, and might be easier to get for you. It's a lot more money, but you probably don't have the junkyards to peruse like we do for cheap parts.

 

+1 I am using Astro parts. They're mostly the same except CCP rotated the accumulator so it doesnt sit on the VC side and then chromed it. My total will be less than $150 but I have a billet mount made by a member on Nasty as well as a good stock of braided stainless PTFE hose. I hear they are an improvement. Only thing I never liked is on my buddies truck the PS pump groans when you put your foot on the brake. Went away after really working the air out of the system but it was annoying for a good three weeks.

 

Thanks guys for your feedback. The CPP hydroboost was recommended by Bear brakes to match their brakes. The CPP hydroboost has a build in adjustable proportional valve as well. I will also replace the combination valve and bring it for disc/disc instead of the stock one I has disc/drum. So actually will end with 2 proportional valves in the system. Within the kit, I am also replacing all the hard lines and flexible from front to rear so I will have a completely new brake system. And as possible matched parts as I can.

We do not have junk yards like you have up there where I can choose parts for my camaro. We do not have american cars in our junk yards, all american cars are on the streets.......

 

Guys, I found MBM which makes direct replacement proportional valves for GM. I think this is what I want and it is a direct replacement GM Disc/Disc Proportioning Valve - Chrome

 

I wouldn't get that one, since it's a direct replacement for stock proportional valve, Nothing in your system will be stock, so I'd go for an adjustable prop valve. They can be dialed in, and forgotten once you've got braking set.
I'm surprised that CPP would have a prop valve built into a hydro boost? They're usually built into the master, not the booster, and not sure how a prop valve could be part of the booster? Also surprised that Baer wouldn't just sell you a master and prop valve to adjust front/back braking, and simply use the booster to do what it's supposed to do; power the brakes.