Tunnel Ram Setup

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  #31  
Old 02-08-2011, 11:09 AM
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^ That's a restriction of the big block then. The alternator fits quite nicely in front of a small block...

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  #32  
Old 02-08-2011, 05:11 PM
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I did the last cam install myself. Really didn't do anything to break it in. I am installing these valve springs tonight.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/73943/10002/-1

This is the cam that I am installing aswell.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lunati/638/60103LK/10002/-1

What do you think the best way to do the break in, When and if I ever get this thing running again...lol

I have heard some good things about those soft header gaskets and I think those are the ones I will go with..

Cly
 
  #33  
Old 02-08-2011, 05:35 PM
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All the cams I have had the honor to break in was a pretty simple process.

Make sure you put lots of assmebly/breakin lube on each lobe and the bearings.

Start engine and get timing close if not right on. and run at 2000-2500 RPM steady for 20 minutes or so. Not much more but no less.

Change oil and filter.

Play nice for the next 1500-2000 miles and change oil again.

Keep playing nice for the next 3000 or so miles and change oil again.

GO play!!

Massey
 
  #34  
Old 02-08-2011, 05:49 PM
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Soak the lifters in oil, but don't pump them up. Coat the cam lobes and bottom of the lifters with cam moly lube. Use straight 30 weight oil in the engine, not synthetic. An engine break in oil additive wouldn't be a bad idea either. Run the engine at 2,000-2,500 rpm's for a half hour. Shut it down, and change the oil.
 
  #35  
Old 02-08-2011, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
^ That's a restriction of the big block then. The alternator fits quite nicely in front of a small block...

I'm confused???? The water pumps are exactly the same thickness and distance from the heads on a small block or a big block. Only difference would be long or short water pump, and my BBC is a long pump.
The difference is the type bracket, which is what I was referring to. I had no issue with my old brackets, but when I changed to the billet style my alt. didn't clear.
 
  #36  
Old 02-08-2011, 07:23 PM
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Well I started to do the valve springs and forgot all about getting the valve seals....The auto parts store only had the o-ring seals and not the umbrela type. So I guess I will have to wait. Bad thing is I think I have some in my tool box at work... I think I may just have to many gears turning thinking about all the chit I need to get...

Note to self: Make a freakin list....lol
 
  #37  
Old 02-08-2011, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 1971BB427
The difference is the type bracket, which is what I was referring to. I had no issue with my old brackets, but when I changed to the billet style my alt. didn't clear.
Then that would mean your pulleys aren't tracking in line as they were with the old bracket since the alternator was moved closer to the head.
 
  #38  
Old 02-08-2011, 07:37 PM
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I see how close that alt is to the valve cover on your pic.. When I was looking for the bracket for mine I seen that the BBC and SBC part numbers were different so maybe the one you ended up with was for a SBC... I don't know..

Cly
 
  #39  
Old 02-08-2011, 11:58 PM
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Thanks for the link, I bought one too! As for your cam break in oil isn't a recommendation, Its gawd dam mandatory now days. The oil now days isn't formulated for flat tappet cams. Comp and a few other big names sell break in specific oil. There are also additives too. Either way du it. The cam will go flat in a heart beat without it.
 
  #40  
Old 02-09-2011, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Camaro 69
Then that would mean your pulleys aren't tracking in line as they were with the old bracket since the alternator was moved closer to the head.
I suppose they would have, but since I changed all the pulleys at the same time I don't know how they would have lined up. I just know that most of this billet stuff is not well engineered, and often has clearance problems. My PS pump bracket was also unuseable as shipped. I ended up sending it back and building my own from parts I put together locally.
 


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