1972 RS 305 to 454 BB

Old Jun 16, 2010 | 03:49 AM
  #1  
Michael Craig's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Default 1972 RS 305 to 454 BB

Hello All...

I just pulled the 305 and would like to install a 454 BB. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Info needed: motor mounts, subframe connector, BB springs frt. & rear

The subframe is being beadblasted & motor is ready for install.

Thanx
 
Old Jun 16, 2010 | 05:27 AM
  #2  
77nomad's Avatar
Overdrive Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,848
From: off the grid
Default

Except for front springs it should go right in. Use the 305 mounts. Don't worry about the rears springs. Welcome.
 
Old Jun 16, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #3  
1971BB427's Avatar
Second Generation Moderator
Feb 2010 ROTM winner
Jan 2013 ROTM winner
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 9,097
From: Portland, Or
ROTM Winner's Club
Default

Might have a little heater core outlet interference if you have the wrong valve covers, and also the brake booster if it's power brakes. Low profile valve covers wont hit, but medium to high will not clear.
My Edelbrocks had to have the fins ground off on the heater core side to not chew up outlet hoses. I use stock 350 bases and motor mounts. Subframe connectors are optional, but after a lot of hard launches you'll see signs of doors closing hard, or body panel gaps. For the sake of your traction I'd get at least a set of slapper bars, and if your stock rear springs are single leaf, I'd go multi leaf. I actually removed my big block front springs and went with small block springs, and it still rides at close to stock height.
Headers can be a issue with some brands, but my Doug's headers fit right in perfectly, and allow access to everything without removing them.
If your engine didn't come with brackets for alt., and power steering be prepared for a hassle. If you can find factory brackets get them. I went with billet and it was a pain to get the right ones.

PS- Welcome!
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 03:56 AM
  #4  
Michael Craig's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Default

Thanx for the information...
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 04:13 AM
  #5  
Michael Craig's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newbie
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Default

Thanx for your help & quick reply... I don't have power brakes so I hope the valve covers won't be an issue. I did take out the AC/heater unit but would like to have just a windshield blower/defroster unit. Don't know if this could be done? I don't need the AC and would like to gain the extra space on firewall, but still would like defroster. I am not doing a total restoration just building a muscle car. Will post some pictures soon.

Nice 71... very impressive!

Again, Thanx for everyones help!
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 10:51 AM
  #6  
Camaro 69's Avatar
Senior Moderator
January 2010 ROTM Winner
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,306
From: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Default

If firewall and heater core clearance is an issue as 1971 mentioned, keep in mind that the big block engine frame mounts not only kicked the engine to the passenger side, but they also moved the engine forward a little under an inch for more firewall clearance.
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 04:11 PM
  #7  
1971BB427's Avatar
Second Generation Moderator
Feb 2010 ROTM winner
Jan 2013 ROTM winner
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 9,097
From: Portland, Or
ROTM Winner's Club
Default

You can also fill the two holes where the core exits to the hoses and turn the core around inside the heater box. Then punch two new holes to connect the heater hoses. That will cure the clearance issues and keep the heater for cool days.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
camaro q8
70-81 General
7
Mar 5, 2015 09:52 AM
driftguy2008
70-81 General
14
Sep 10, 2011 12:24 AM
skdsoccer
70-81 General
1
May 11, 2008 07:21 AM
cobrasnake302
93-02 General
4
Oct 29, 2006 11:25 AM
WNMCJ
New Members Area
1
Apr 27, 2006 12:32 AM


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:51 PM.