1972 RS 305 to 454 BB
Hello All...
I just pulled the 305 and would like to install a 454 BB. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Info needed: motor mounts, subframe connector, BB springs frt. & rear
The subframe is being beadblasted & motor is ready for install.
Thanx
I just pulled the 305 and would like to install a 454 BB. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated.
Info needed: motor mounts, subframe connector, BB springs frt. & rear
The subframe is being beadblasted & motor is ready for install.
Thanx
Might have a little heater core outlet interference if you have the wrong valve covers, and also the brake booster if it's power brakes. Low profile valve covers wont hit, but medium to high will not clear.
My Edelbrocks had to have the fins ground off on the heater core side to not chew up outlet hoses. I use stock 350 bases and motor mounts. Subframe connectors are optional, but after a lot of hard launches you'll see signs of doors closing hard, or body panel gaps. For the sake of your traction I'd get at least a set of slapper bars, and if your stock rear springs are single leaf, I'd go multi leaf. I actually removed my big block front springs and went with small block springs, and it still rides at close to stock height.
Headers can be a issue with some brands, but my Doug's headers fit right in perfectly, and allow access to everything without removing them.
If your engine didn't come with brackets for alt., and power steering be prepared for a hassle. If you can find factory brackets get them. I went with billet and it was a pain to get the right ones.
PS- Welcome!
My Edelbrocks had to have the fins ground off on the heater core side to not chew up outlet hoses. I use stock 350 bases and motor mounts. Subframe connectors are optional, but after a lot of hard launches you'll see signs of doors closing hard, or body panel gaps. For the sake of your traction I'd get at least a set of slapper bars, and if your stock rear springs are single leaf, I'd go multi leaf. I actually removed my big block front springs and went with small block springs, and it still rides at close to stock height.
Headers can be a issue with some brands, but my Doug's headers fit right in perfectly, and allow access to everything without removing them.
If your engine didn't come with brackets for alt., and power steering be prepared for a hassle. If you can find factory brackets get them. I went with billet and it was a pain to get the right ones.
PS- Welcome!
Thanx for your help & quick reply... I don't have power brakes so I hope the valve covers won't be an issue. I did take out the AC/heater unit but would like to have just a windshield blower/defroster unit. Don't know if this could be done? I don't need the AC and would like to gain the extra space on firewall, but still would like defroster. I am not doing a total restoration just building a muscle car. Will post some pictures soon.
Nice 71... very impressive!
Again, Thanx for everyones help!
Nice 71... very impressive!
Again, Thanx for everyones help!
If firewall and heater core clearance is an issue as 1971 mentioned, keep in mind that the big block engine frame mounts not only kicked the engine to the passenger side, but they also moved the engine forward a little under an inch for more firewall clearance.
You can also fill the two holes where the core exits to the hoses and turn the core around inside the heater box. Then punch two new holes to connect the heater hoses. That will cure the clearance issues and keep the heater for cool days.
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