The Saga Continues----on my '69 with the steel bellhousing, I removed the front block plate, installed new clutch disc , and adjusted the fork ball as far forward as possible and now the clutch fork is hitting the floor pan. Its almost like the bellhousing rose higher to hit the floorpan. It doesn't make any sense. Could the rear transmission rubber bracket be to tall? (it looks aftermarket). Any ideas???

 

also is there a way to check if the engine/transmission is sitting in it's proper angle?

 

If I remember, the trans isolator height is about 1.25 inches, maybe 1.5.
The trans crossmember has three holes in the flanges for an OE shifter.
These holes should be on the drvr side.
A quick check of angles is measure the driveline angles of both sides of the yokes at both ends.
There should less then 1° difference between the two ends.
The distance of the pivot ball from the engine side of b/housing should be 4.75 inches.
The correct fork ends in 638, I think.

 

Make sure you're using the correct clutch fork. There are bunches of different style GM forks that have different bends to them.
Using the wrong one can give you clearance issues, as well as affect the throw of the clutch: Pictures and Identification of GM Clutch release forks.

 

This is what I have come up with so far. The flywheel is an aftermarket 11" aluminum HARVEY, a worn out 11" clutch disc, stock 11"pressure plate and a fork out of a '76 Camaro with short throwout bearing and Lakewood bellhousing. Quite a circus. A friend is digging through his stash for a stock flywheel, bought a new stock 11" clutch disc, use the same pressure plate, ordered new fork (thanks for the ID chart of forks Mr.69) and new throwout bearing. Hopefully the Lakewood bellhousing will cover everthing up. Oh yeah, removed the enging block plate. NOW, maybe I can get some clearance on the fork-floorboard problem. And Everett, thanks for the geometry lesson. Some of it I actually figured out. Soon as I get this all put togather, "I'll be baaack!"