How to refinish valve covers?

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Old Jan 3, 2019 | 12:08 PM
  #1  
Robert Kendall's Avatar
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Default How to refinish valve covers?

Have the engine pulled from my 68 (327) replacing seals, repainting, nothing major, but I need advice on refinishing the valve covers. I have aluminum covers similar to the picture. Since they are aluminum, I don't want to sandblast them. What is the best way to strip them? Also, am I able to powder coat them? I would like to cover them with wrinkle black

 
Old Jan 3, 2019 | 05:14 PM
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Maybe media and or chemical stripping? Use sand paper and a lot of elbow grease are others
 
Old Jan 3, 2019 | 05:44 PM
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Since you're going to do them in wrinkle black I'd just take them in to be bead blasted.
 
Old Jan 4, 2019 | 06:01 AM
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you can buy a sand blaster from harbor freight for $20 and a bag of play sand for $4.and do it your self .
just don't use a lot of air pressure or get to close
the ruff texture will allow the paint to adhere better
 
Old Jan 7, 2019 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by flat tire
you can buy a sand blaster from harbor freight for $20 and a bag of play sand for $4.and do it your self .
just don't use a lot of air pressure or get to close
the ruff texture will allow the paint to adhere better
I have a blasting cabinet, use it for most of my other parts. I was concerned that it would dull the aluminum finish. My plan is to powder coat it wrinkle black, then sand the raised parts back to bare.
 
Old Jan 7, 2019 | 10:00 AM
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Then clean out the sand and put some other media in instead.
 
Old Jan 7, 2019 | 11:28 AM
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Powder coat does not stick to polished surfaces well. It needs tooth to bit in. You will find that without any tooth (surface roughness) the power coat will shrink and split. You could use plastic media that will clean the surface only but then you should scuff it with scotch brite pad afterwards anyway. Walnut shells would work also.

Another tip on powder coating is to go a head and heat the valve cover up before you power coat it. Let any oil or solvents cook out before you coat it. If you don't you can get gas trapped under the coating. Also if you can hang the valve cover upside down. If you let it the powder will build up in and around the fins and letters.
 
Old Jan 7, 2019 | 01:02 PM
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Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. I only have the blaster for hobby purposes, and have always used just the medium grit media. I will look into that.
 
Old Jan 7, 2019 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorn
Powder coat does not stick to polished surfaces well. It needs tooth to bit in. You will find that without any tooth (surface roughness) the power coat will shrink and split. You could use plastic media that will clean the surface only but then you should scuff it with scotch brite pad afterwards anyway. Walnut shells would work also.

Another tip on powder coating is to go a head and heat the valve cover up before you power coat it. Let any oil or solvents cook out before you coat it. If you don't you can get gas trapped under the coating. Also if you can hang the valve cover upside down. If you let it the powder will build up in and around the fins and letters.
Thanks, I have never done valve covers before, and I hope not to mess them up.
 
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