How to refinish valve covers?
Have the engine pulled from my 68 (327) replacing seals, repainting, nothing major, but I need advice on refinishing the valve covers. I have aluminum covers similar to the picture. Since they are aluminum, I don't want to sandblast them. What is the best way to strip them? Also, am I able to powder coat them? I would like to cover them with wrinkle black
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/camarof...48f043c00a.jpg |
Maybe media and or chemical stripping? Use sand paper and a lot of elbow grease are others
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Since you're going to do them in wrinkle black I'd just take them in to be bead blasted.
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you can buy a sand blaster from harbor freight for $20 and a bag of play sand for $4.and do it your self .
just don't use a lot of air pressure or get to close the ruff texture will allow the paint to adhere better |
Originally Posted by flat tire
(Post 730028)
you can buy a sand blaster from harbor freight for $20 and a bag of play sand for $4.and do it your self .
just don't use a lot of air pressure or get to close the ruff texture will allow the paint to adhere better |
Then clean out the sand and put some other media in instead.
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Powder coat does not stick to polished surfaces well. It needs tooth to bit in. You will find that without any tooth (surface roughness) the power coat will shrink and split. You could use plastic media that will clean the surface only but then you should scuff it with scotch brite pad afterwards anyway. Walnut shells would work also.
Another tip on powder coating is to go a head and heat the valve cover up before you power coat it. Let any oil or solvents cook out before you coat it. If you don't you can get gas trapped under the coating. Also if you can hang the valve cover upside down. If you let it the powder will build up in and around the fins and letters. |
Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. I only have the blaster for hobby purposes, and have always used just the medium grit media. I will look into that.
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Originally Posted by Gorn
(Post 730073)
Powder coat does not stick to polished surfaces well. It needs tooth to bit in. You will find that without any tooth (surface roughness) the power coat will shrink and split. You could use plastic media that will clean the surface only but then you should scuff it with scotch brite pad afterwards anyway. Walnut shells would work also.
Another tip on powder coating is to go a head and heat the valve cover up before you power coat it. Let any oil or solvents cook out before you coat it. If you don't you can get gas trapped under the coating. Also if you can hang the valve cover upside down. If you let it the powder will build up in and around the fins and letters. |
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