Engine Advice
#1
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Guys, I am weighing the options of doing some engine changes. I currently have a mild built 350 that could use a rebuild. I was thinking of just doing a swap since my motor is not a matching numbers motor.
Should I stay away from the 383 strokers? I was told these wear faster than a 350 and that 350's can be built to run just as hard?
I dont have to be the baddest dog in the yard, but I would like to be able to hold my own on the street . I have about $3000 to spend. Big Block? I use the car for a weekend driver and some red light to red light racing. Probably would never would put it on a strip. Just not my thing really.
Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks
Should I stay away from the 383 strokers? I was told these wear faster than a 350 and that 350's can be built to run just as hard?
I dont have to be the baddest dog in the yard, but I would like to be able to hold my own on the street . I have about $3000 to spend. Big Block? I use the car for a weekend driver and some red light to red light racing. Probably would never would put it on a strip. Just not my thing really.
Any advice would be appreciated.Thanks
#2
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i dont know that a 383 wearing faster but yeah a 350 can be built to run as hard or harder than a 383. my opinion is that the 350 is better than a 383. ive never had a 383 and neither has my grandpa. we've always ran 350s but actually prefer 327's. he was going to rebuild a 383 once for a buddy of his but when he opened it up there were alot of problems inside on it so he gave the motor back beccause he didnt want to tought it. we have a 350 in a 1933 ford pick up and in a 1955 bel air 2 dr hdtp. the truck was raced years ago with the a hot 350 and it ran high 12's in 1/4 and the 55 we just got on the road and we are shooting for 11's
#3
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when building an engine (any) just remember to spend money on a good cam and a great set of heads!!! this is where all the power is made and allows the engine to breathe!!
i have a 355 a .030 bored 350 4 bolt main steel crank with forged flat top pistons ( keep your CR at 10.5:1 or lower to be gas friendly) it has a comp cam 280 magnum cam with full roller rockers,a set of world sportsman heads with 2.05 and 1.60 valves topped off with a dual plane aluminum intake and a holley 750
i have had it for 10 yrs and have ran it past 7000 rpms many times and it is a monster!! i have it in a full interior 71 chevelle and have run mid to high elevens all day with it and drove it 45 minutes home afterward!!
just look around for a GOOD reputible machine shop in your area, talk to alot of gear heads and find the best for your money!!!
383`s are real torque monsters but i have had alot of luck with a well built 355!! i have 3 of them in this similar build!!
most recent one
i have a 355 a .030 bored 350 4 bolt main steel crank with forged flat top pistons ( keep your CR at 10.5:1 or lower to be gas friendly) it has a comp cam 280 magnum cam with full roller rockers,a set of world sportsman heads with 2.05 and 1.60 valves topped off with a dual plane aluminum intake and a holley 750
i have had it for 10 yrs and have ran it past 7000 rpms many times and it is a monster!! i have it in a full interior 71 chevelle and have run mid to high elevens all day with it and drove it 45 minutes home afterward!!
just look around for a GOOD reputible machine shop in your area, talk to alot of gear heads and find the best for your money!!!
383`s are real torque monsters but i have had alot of luck with a well built 355!! i have 3 of them in this similar build!!
most recent one
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#7
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for a well built sb with all parts and labor should be 3000-4000g
some guys like the crate engine deals but they seem a little pricier and i would rather know the guy that built my engine is within driving distance incase there are any issues!
some guys like the crate engine deals but they seem a little pricier and i would rather know the guy that built my engine is within driving distance incase there are any issues!
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04-24-2009 04:20 PM