REAR WHEEL HP VS ENGINE HP
I have a 93 z28 lt1 6spd with 18k miles, callaway air intake, stage 3 chip,160 degree thermostat and flowmaster exhaust. My question is this, what do you think my rear wheel hp is and consequently the engine hp. Im trying to avoid having it dyno'd. Im guessing 335 rwhp, which should be about 400 at the motor. does anyone have similar equipment that has had their car dyno'd..or do any of you run a dyno and have info for me..let me know what you all think..thanks[8D]
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[IMG]local://upfiles/14817/D4B8AD744629411482420DD819C0D553.jpg[/IMG]
In general you can assume 15% parasitic loss from the drivetrain, but the only way to truly tell is if you get it dyno'd. All cars are different, that said, all dynos are different as well and in all actuality you should only be comparing your HP to the other vehicles that were run on that exact same dyno (and ideally a perfectly climate controlled atmosphere, but we all know how easy those are to come by...
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I'm new to the LT1 however, specs show that when the engine was new, it produced 275 HP. If your theory was correct, then a CAI, chip and a catback would give you a 45% increase in power??????? I just don't see those kind of results possible from those mods.
agreed. 400 is somewhat of a magical number. everyone wants to hit right at the 400 mark. I had a guy try to sell me a 97 TA saying it had a chip to give it 400hp.... no F'ing way [8D].
Im curious though, what made you pick those numbers? even the modifications ratings shouldnt have predicted that high, and most vendors inflate their hp gain ratings to boost sales
for you:
intake - 7hp
chip - -5-+5hp.... so well call it 0hp
t-stat - not a performance mod - 0hp
flowmaster exhaust: if full catback ~5hp
so you went from 275 to just under 290bhp give or take.thats approximately 246.5rwhp.
if you want to get to 335rwhp you will NEED (and this is tested and proven)
[ul][*]longtube headers[*]aftermarket cam - fairly aggressive[*]P/P heads - potentially w/ valve job[/ul]
you may get there w/ the headers and cam, but it would have to be a big cam to do it. much more likely with worked heads.
Im curious though, what made you pick those numbers? even the modifications ratings shouldnt have predicted that high, and most vendors inflate their hp gain ratings to boost sales
for you:
intake - 7hp
chip - -5-+5hp.... so well call it 0hp
t-stat - not a performance mod - 0hp
flowmaster exhaust: if full catback ~5hp
so you went from 275 to just under 290bhp give or take.thats approximately 246.5rwhp.
if you want to get to 335rwhp you will NEED (and this is tested and proven)
[ul][*]longtube headers[*]aftermarket cam - fairly aggressive[*]P/P heads - potentially w/ valve job[/ul]
you may get there w/ the headers and cam, but it would have to be a big cam to do it. much more likely with worked heads.
not totally true spec...you can get there with a moderately sized cam...happens quite a bit actually. if he wants to get to say 380+ rwhp then he definitely needs heads with it
ORIGINAL: whammer3024
not totally true spec...you can get there with a moderately sized cam...happens quite a bit actually. if he wants to get to say 380+ rwhp then he definitely needs heads with it
not totally true spec...you can get there with a moderately sized cam...happens quite a bit actually. if he wants to get to say 380+ rwhp then he definitely needs heads with it
Right now you are pretty much stock except a intake, cat back and tune i would say you are some where in the 265 wheel horse power range give or take a few and probably right around the 300 mark at the crank.
damn... from 275hp to almost 400hp with intake and exhaust.. iwant anlt1 that responds likethat.. You cant always believe what the box says. an intake will barely net you any gains and a chip will probably net you even less.
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