My 1978 Z28 Camaro's right rear brake is locking up when I try to stop relatively quickly. The car has been sitting alot for the past 4 or 5 years and doesn't seem to stop as good as it use to. It has front disc and rear drums and of course no ABS. I don't see any leaks. What causes one rear tire to lock? the brake on that wheel or the front brakes not working good or master cylinder or what? maybe stuck wheel cylinder on that wheel?
I already have some of the parts (springs, shoes) to rebuild the back brakes but haven't started the job yet. Having an idea of whats wrong before I start would be nice.

Thanks.

Joe

 

Welcome to the forum! Most likely a wheel cylinder, but could also be well worn brakes that cause the wheel cylinder to extend too far and catch. I think if the car has set a long time I'd replace the wheel cylinders on both rear wheels, and completely bleed the system to get all the old fluid out. Shouldn't be anything more serious.

 

Thank you. One reason I really want to redo the brakes is the fluid in it must be very, very old. Decades old and the car has been sitting outside alot too.

One of the things I am not looking forward to is trying to get the drums off. I bet the shoes are really extended out and who knows the conitions of the adjusters. I have no one to help me bleed the system but someone told me that now they have these bleeder values which allow one person to do the job? I haven't done brakes in a long time but this will be fun, I am sure. 8-)

BTW, I assume I can still buy replacement drums if I find my current drums can't be turned down.

Joe

 

Yes they do make a pressure bleeder to automatically bleed the system by yourself. I've got one I bought at my local Coastal Farm supply and it worked great! Be sure to suck all the old fluid out of the master, or replace the master first. That will save time draing it through the wheel cylinders. The masters are only $38 brand new, and around $22 for rebuilt. I got a new one at Summit Racing recently for $38.
New drums are also available if they can't be turned. If the adjuster is stuck you might be able to spray through the hole in the backing plate with some WD40 or Kroil and a nozzle to saturate the adjuster. If not you can always get a big hammer and just break the drum. The perimeter drum is cast and they'll break if hit hard. Wear safety glasses and cover it with an old towell to catch the metal.

 

Well this weekend I put new rear brakes in the Z. Boy it was very hard to get those springs all back on. I don't have alot of hand strength and it was murder but in the end got it all put back together. Looks like the driver side rear wheel cylinder was messed up AND the self adjuster spring next to the star wheel, had bent out of shape and was hitting the star wheel keeping it from rotating! Regarding the drums, the good side came right off. The bad side I had to hit it with a hammer and pry it off. The knock out plugs were never removed and I couldn't get anything in there to hit them to remove them. But thank God I got the drum off without breaking anything.

Tomorrow my new drums should come in and then I will bleed the system and I should be good to go. The brake fluid that was in there must have been very old, it looked like muddy water. Yuch.

Joe

 

Brake fluid goes bad, especially the new fangled vegetable base fluid. It can really mess up your lines and corrode them from the inside out! Make sure it's all drained and comes out clear at the wheels when you're done.
Start bleeding at the right rear wheel, then move to left rear and finally to the fronts.

 

Put new drums on and started to bleed all the wheels. Got to the last wheel, left front, and the #$$%! bleeder screw was damaged from the last place that did the brakes and it snapped off while I was trying to loosen it up. So now I can't bleed the left front wheel and I am sure it needs it as I emptied out and cleaned the master cylinder. I may try an easyout. If it doesn't work, the only solution I can think of is to replace the caliper. RATS!

Joe

 

When you say "damaged" do you mean the nut is rounded off, or the bleeder is broken off? If the nut is rounded off you should try a small pair of vise grips on the bleeder. If you get it loose, then go get a new bleeder before proceeding. Once you've got the new one you can unscrew the old and install the new quickly. Then proceed to bleed that last caliper and you're good. NAPA should carry a bleeder screw or be able to get one
I've had pretty good luck using vise gip pliers to remove stuck or rounded bleeder scews.

 

Broken off. It was rounded and I tried using vise grips to remove and the stupid bleeder screw actually broke off flush with the caliper. SOmeone must have really tighten it down good. I have another screw to put in (from the old wheel cylinders I replaced) but I need to remove the broken one first.

Joe[



quote=1971BB427;425825]When you say "damaged" do you mean the nut is rounded off, or the bleeder is broken off? If the nut is rounded off you should try a small pair of vise grips on the bleeder. If you get it loose, then go get a new bleeder before proceeding. Once you've got the new one you can unscrew the old and install the new quickly. Then proceed to bleed that last caliper and you're good. NAPA should carry a bleeder screw or be able to get one
I've had pretty good luck using vise gip pliers to remove stuck or rounded bleeder scews.[/quote]

 

Bummer! On the bright side a new reconditioned caliper isn't all that expensive. I see them locally for $60 a pair here. Not sure if they sell singles or not?