Guess Im another victim with issues installing these LT's. Just talk with my local mechanic and the common flaw with the steering column restricting the driver side header. I don't want to give up on the headers main reason because I've already purchased them with the ORY pipe. Just told him too put the manifolds back on and I will deal with it when I finish my deployment.
Just need a few tips. I heard that the steering column can move out a few inches and disconnecting them helps?


95z28, B&M ripper, slp cold air intake, pulleys, MSD ignition, pacesetter lt's, ory pipe, slp lm1

 

here we go again.

I've posted at least 3 times how to do it

do you have an auto tranny? For this i will assume that you do.

Next, I'll also assume that you have the LTs with smog vs off road.

other than tools, gather up these supplies

PB Blaster but it seems that you already have the old manifolds off

sawzall- if you already have the old y pipe removed then sawzall isn't needed

most important item.... Percys Seal 4 Good header gaskets and they cost $31 at summit

O2 extensions

some tie wraps

about 2-3 feet of heat sleeve

8 new spark plugs
new set of wires, the Jegs 8.5mm are wonderful and inexpensive

a chunk of a 2x4 or 1x4

a bottle jack or floor jack


now let's begin


car on jack stands
disconnect battery

remove starter

disconnect steering shaft (it's one bolt) and toss out the plastic sleeve

loosen alternator

remove passenger side valve cover

remove old manifolds

remove old spark plugs

undo bolt for oil dipstick and remove dipstick. just twist and pull

from the top, drop in the driver side header and just place it there. yes, it's that simple with the steering disconnected

put heat sleeve on the ABS line of the passenger side. The header comes close to it when installed so $8 worth of heat sleeve is cheap insurance

slide under the car, put the chunk of wood on the oil pan and jack until the wood is just snug

undo and remove the 1 long bolt per motor mount on each side of the engine. jacking a wee bit will release pressure from the bolt

raise engine approx 1-2 inches

from up top, drop and wiggle passenger side header in until you think it won't go in. Now, shove the engine over toward the driver and side and LOOKEE there, the passenger header drops in the rest of the way. Go underneath, lower the engine a little, not all the way. Hook up the useless egr and AIR stuff. (if you don't have it then good for you. i don't either)

slide on the Percy's (you'll thank me later) and put on 2-3 header bolts on each side but just loose. Now run your plug wires and no they don't touch the header and yes they run through the stock wire guides and fit well.

Now put the rest of the bolts in and make them snug, not tight.

Lower the engine

reconnect the steering shaft but don't bolt yet. wiggle header, wiggle steering and then tighten all bolts

connect your Y pipe and now reconnect the starter, run O2 extensions and finish the job


Follow the instructions and they really do drop in from the top and that includes the ones with the EGR neck that gets in the way and is a PITA during install.

If your mechanic couldn't do it, get a new mechanic.

 

i smell a sticky,,, good writeup tig, do you have it stored in memory so you can just copy to post. lol. all we need is someone with pictures.

 

its a manual tranny...shouldnt make a difference though......thanks TIG

 

well..........

it should be easier

good luck