New to site and have questions on Project
#1
New to site and have questions on Project
Guys and Gals I just got the news I am getting a 94 Camaro Z28 from a friend. The car has been sitting for 10 yrs and isn't in to bad of shape and I'm looking to get it road worthy again. The question I have is with that LT1 sitting for that long, Do you think it would be possible it would take fuel and fire up. Of course I would check oil and vitals before doing anything. Hook a battery to it and see if motor still turns before trying fuel. Looking forward to posting here and hopefully getting info,
#2
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,357
Change oil, suck out the gas put a new fuel filter on it, Put in some new gas with a cleaner in it. Replace the new fuel filter after the second tank of gas.
Pressure test the coolant system watch the water pump. If you see even a hint of coolant coming from the weep hole replace the water pump. If it leaks it will cause the optispark to fail. I would re-pressure test the coolant system after a few heat/cool cycles.
Go very easy on the trans for the first week or so, give the seals a chance to hydrate, unless its a stick then you beat on it day one
Pressure test the coolant system watch the water pump. If you see even a hint of coolant coming from the weep hole replace the water pump. If it leaks it will cause the optispark to fail. I would re-pressure test the coolant system after a few heat/cool cycles.
Go very easy on the trans for the first week or so, give the seals a chance to hydrate, unless its a stick then you beat on it day one
#4
I'd pull the plugs out and squirt some oil in the cylinders before spinning the motor at all, let it soak into the rings for a while. If there's any rust or stuck rings when you start it after that long it could be a bad thing.
I usually let it sit overnight to soak in well and then spin the motor with the starter a few times while the plugs are still out to lube it up before starting it.
Just my 2cts.
I usually let it sit overnight to soak in well and then spin the motor with the starter a few times while the plugs are still out to lube it up before starting it.
Just my 2cts.
#5
Thanks Y2K was thinking of getting some Marvel Mystery oil and doing just that. I was just wanting to make sure with it sitting that long if there was even a chance it would start. More than likely motor is going to be pulled an rebuilt and maybe a supercharger added. So many possibilities. Biggest thing I have right now is a water leak in the the trunk area. Standing water in cargo area but no damage. Think back glass seal may be bad.
#7
Yea craby that was the first thing I looked at the other day when I was at the shop. Im expecting to spend some money on the front end just to get it road worthy. Looking forward to getting feedback on some of my ideas I have once its in my garage and ready to start.
#8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,357
I tend to be the guy that brings reality/cost into these threads. If you don't have a strong emotional tie to this car you should really think hard about what you are doing.
The cost of reviving this thing will be greater then what you would pay to buy a running driving car. The cost of building a LT1 is much higher then building a LS1. The Lt1 will not respond to a supercharger/turbo/NO2 like a LS engine will. They only made the LT1 for 5 years so parts are either old or pricey because of low volumes. The cost to build an Lt1 to handle 500 HP is significant. The computer system is harder to tune and has limitation. Converting a Lt1 car to a LS motor is a pain.
On the other hand you can find a LS1 car with a bad motor for under a $1000 install a 6.0 and trans out of a GM Van/truck which should cost less then $1000 add some bolt- ons then take it to a tuner and you should be at 350 Wheel HP. That can turn into 450hp with the right heads and Cam. If that is not a enough you can add a turbo and hit 600hp all on a shock engine. The best part is you can do it in stages because the bottom end can handle 800hp, your Lt1 in stock form could give up around 400HP, so you either spend 2-3K building a forged short block day one or you have to keep upgrading the whole engine every time you want to add power. The point is you can build an entire LS car for what it will cost you make the pistons, rods and crank of a Lt1 almost as strong as a stock LS 6.0 motor. I can link you to a guy that made a 1000+ wheel HP on a stock 6.0. He documented the whole process on video. He even did 650hp out of a 4.8 which is the weakest of LS engines.
Now if this is a car you and your buddy cruised in and you really love it then by all means get her back on the road and wake up the Lt1 a little. But keep 2 things in mind, You will NEVER be able to sell it for the money you have in it and if you wreck, even if its not your fault, you are getting fare market value. Right now that would barley cover the cost of the trans.
This just happened to a friend for some reason he loves early 90's BMWs, he restored a 92. He got rear ended at a light, The insurance company offered him less then the paint job cost him less then a year ago. He called a lawyer, lawyer told him he would be wasting money hiring him. The only way to get more then fair market on a car is to pre-define the value with your insurance company before there is an accident. He talked the insurance company into selling him the car for next to nothing, luckily he was hit in the rear so the rebuilt drive train survived, he found a rust free shell for $1200 so he will only lose $2000 or so in paint and a few hundred hours putting the car back together.
The cost of reviving this thing will be greater then what you would pay to buy a running driving car. The cost of building a LT1 is much higher then building a LS1. The Lt1 will not respond to a supercharger/turbo/NO2 like a LS engine will. They only made the LT1 for 5 years so parts are either old or pricey because of low volumes. The cost to build an Lt1 to handle 500 HP is significant. The computer system is harder to tune and has limitation. Converting a Lt1 car to a LS motor is a pain.
On the other hand you can find a LS1 car with a bad motor for under a $1000 install a 6.0 and trans out of a GM Van/truck which should cost less then $1000 add some bolt- ons then take it to a tuner and you should be at 350 Wheel HP. That can turn into 450hp with the right heads and Cam. If that is not a enough you can add a turbo and hit 600hp all on a shock engine. The best part is you can do it in stages because the bottom end can handle 800hp, your Lt1 in stock form could give up around 400HP, so you either spend 2-3K building a forged short block day one or you have to keep upgrading the whole engine every time you want to add power. The point is you can build an entire LS car for what it will cost you make the pistons, rods and crank of a Lt1 almost as strong as a stock LS 6.0 motor. I can link you to a guy that made a 1000+ wheel HP on a stock 6.0. He documented the whole process on video. He even did 650hp out of a 4.8 which is the weakest of LS engines.
Now if this is a car you and your buddy cruised in and you really love it then by all means get her back on the road and wake up the Lt1 a little. But keep 2 things in mind, You will NEVER be able to sell it for the money you have in it and if you wreck, even if its not your fault, you are getting fare market value. Right now that would barley cover the cost of the trans.
This just happened to a friend for some reason he loves early 90's BMWs, he restored a 92. He got rear ended at a light, The insurance company offered him less then the paint job cost him less then a year ago. He called a lawyer, lawyer told him he would be wasting money hiring him. The only way to get more then fair market on a car is to pre-define the value with your insurance company before there is an accident. He talked the insurance company into selling him the car for next to nothing, luckily he was hit in the rear so the rebuilt drive train survived, he found a rust free shell for $1200 so he will only lose $2000 or so in paint and a few hundred hours putting the car back together.
Last edited by Gorn; 11-05-2017 at 10:12 AM.
#9
Thanks Gorn. I like to know the realities of what I'm getting into. New to these new computer driven engines. Granted I don't want this to turn into a money pit by any means. I will look at my options and I thank you for any and all info.
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