Yeah that's kinda what I was thinking but the reason I'm leaning more toward fuel issue than ignition is because it only happened under a light load like when accelerating a little or goin up a hill. The only sensor I can think of that would cause that is the tps and I already replaced that.

 

may want to test fpr to make sure its working correctly. i went through 3 before i got a good one. thing is the engine ran the whole time. i was rich which had me thinking my pressure was high and thats why i was checking fuel pressure. ect sensor on my truck was showing -40 degrees and it would die if i gave it too much gas at once and would not run at all once it warmed up. it was way rich as well. when the fuel pump went in the truck it would do what you are seeing, act like it was running out of gas. i changed the filter and it ran fine for a couple days and did it again, pulled filter, drained it and it got me a couple miles down the road, did it again and again till i got home. dont ask me why, im thinking now it had nothing to do with draining the filter and more with pump cooling off.

 

Well I got the pump in today but I won't get a chance to put it in or do much work to the car till next week. I did go ahead and hook a test light up to one of my plugs tonight real quick and found out I'm not getting any fire along with the fuel pressure. Sooo, I'm thinking I have multiple problems, woohoo.

 

well thats a whole different story,,, failing opti and/or ignition control module can both make a car run as you are seeing. should show a trouble code but not always. coil can run and not run failing after warming up.

 

So I went through and checked the voltage to the ICM at the connector. At terminal A and D I had 12.51 volts with the key on, terminal B I had 1.94 volts with the engine cranking and I checked terminal C for continuity to ground which it did, barely any resistance. I put my spark tester from the coil to the cap and had no fire there. With getting the right readings at the ICM connector but no fire from the coil that should eliminate it down to either the ICM or coil right? Or is there something else like the PCM or distributor that would still make it not fire even with the right readings?

 

Yeah, the OPTI can cause some really funky problems. I replaced mine a couple years ago right after I got the car. I had a similar issue where mine would miss very sporadically, but only while cruising when it was very cold and damp outside (the car was at operating temp). Like many others, I never had a code or SES.

I replaced the OPTI, plugs, wires, and coil all at the same time as they were still original to the car. The beast has run great ever since and other than a bad A/C compressor and bad tranny mount (just replaced) I haven't had any trouble with it since.

 

Ok so even tho my car wasn't throwing a code I decided to go ahead and check my engine codes anyway, found out I'm throwing a code 41 for the ICM. Took the ICM into work to test it (I work at Advance) and my old ICM was bad. The crazy thing is I had tested it like 3 days before my car died and it had tested fine. Well anyway I got the new ICM in at work today and went ahead and put it on (thinking woohoo finally figured this out!). Nope. car still won't start and is thowing the same code 41 again. I went through and tested everything again and came right back in the diagnosis where it says either the ICM or it's connector is bad. The connector itself looks great, no corrosion, all terminals are tight, I even had some good dialectric grease in there. So I'm assuming the ICM fried on me again. The only other time I've ever had this happen to me was on an old ford taurus I had to drive, everytime I replaced the ICM it fried the second the engine started cranking, ended up being the distributor was bad but the ICM was mounted on the distributor itself on the taurus where the LT1 is seperate. Does anyone know of anything other than the distributor that would cause my ICM to fry the second my engine turns over?

Udate: I started checking my connections from the distributor to ECM. Terminals A and B both had 4.96 volts and terminal C had 12.01 volts, however terminal D which should be continuos to ground had no continuity.

 

 

hey all..i have a 94 camaro.little 3.4 in it..last year rebuilt the motor.ran awesome..no have a problem...the car is bucking at high speed's..now i know it could be a crank censer,fuel pump,now there are new fuel injectors ac delco wires and plugs...going to check the coil pack tomorrow..is there anything that i am over looking..any help would be great..pulling my hair out with this car..

 

Thanks Craby, I've gone through every diagnostic chart I can find and everything keeps pointing back to the ICM but with it frying the new ICM I put on in less than a second of it being on the car I almost feel like I'm going to have to start throwing parts at the car haha. I actually do think I'm going to go ahead and break down and get a new distributor. My 93 is about 30k miles overdue for the original to break down on me and all the symptoms seem to be pointing at the opti.