No, I'm piecing mine together myself. I'm trying to use parts that no one else uses or talks bad about. I measured the piston pin hieght and it seems to be about an 1/8th to 1/4inch higher on the piston. Here are the rods I chose too. What do you think? And I'm using Clevite tri-armor bearings which are coated with a copper/graphite liner!

 

I am however keeping my stock fast burn heads. With steam piping, 58cc chambers, smaller 1.50 and 194 valves, because it matches my stock single plane intake but I have already upgraded injectors, tune, and a Holley 58mmTB. I am also going with a Mcloed aluminum flywheel and clutch to make up for the heavier crank and rods. I have upgraded my heads with new studs, guideplates, roller tip rockers, beehive spring kit, lifters, and pushrods. The cam is a little on the bigger side so I may have to lay some clay/puddy down to check for piston to valve clearance. It's a 292XFI. I think I'll be alright keeping my stock valves though. I have already changed gears to 373, and mid-tube headers.

 

Alright, I took my GM roller pilot bearing out and tried installing it on the new crank. It slides in and out with ease, the problem is it slides all the way to the back of the hole before it locks up. My original crank's bushing is flush with the bearing hole. Now do you think a little red thread locker on the outside of the bearing along with maybe "dimpling" the outside of the hole would lock the bearing into place flush?

 

Well, no input? I have found a lot off people that dislike the roller bearing. But I know there's a lot of overpriced "cheap" stuff on the market. I found another post bout dipeling around the hole and using a little loctite. But, I know it heats up too, maybe it is supposed to be a little play until it heats up? I'm going to the corvette forum to find there input. I know, I know it's a Z/28 and the stock oil/brass bushing is probably best for the torque monster but I'm switching to an aluminum flywheel too.

 

Its not a crime to respond to PM's. In fact its encouraged.

 

Yes, I answered them. Seems a lot of people can't get their pilot bearings to go in so I should be able to make it work, better yet, without beating on it!

 

All the adjustments have to be made in the wrist pin location. You need to get pistons made for the stroke you are looking for, and for the lenghth of the connecting rod you plan to use. Also you need to assemble the parts and make sure the rod big ends clear the side rails where the oil pan bolts to the engine. Depending on the stroke some grinding of the side rails may be needed to provide clearance.

 

I know all that. That's stroker basics. When you order Wiseco pistons it has all the compression ratings and rod length specs. I am more worried about cam clearance. And no one has answered my question about a loose fitting pilotbearing. I'm thinking about going Kevlar bushing now?

 

I would use a bushing, then not have to ever worry about a bearing locking up or wearing out.
The pilot bushing/bearing is only being utilized when the trans is free-wheeling anyway, not while driving.

 

Well my stock crank has the brass bushing. But now I think I'm going to stick with the GM pilot bearing and "dimple", loctite it in there. I am still waiting on a keyed hub, been on backorder now for weeks. Jegs has one in stock so I am giving them until Wend. to ship or I'm canceling the order. My white assembly lube just came in, good stuff. Now I have a stud girdle ordered too. I am going to slightly modify for the oil dipstick and oil pump drive. But with only two pieces left to the puzzle before off to the machine shop. I am trying to keep myself from disassembling the heads.