Here is the rocker arm I chose for affordability. Since I am not revving above 5800rpm I went with a "roller tip" rocker with beehive springs.
I took this pic during a cam swap!

 

putting my engine back together. Been reading a little about polishing the deck, head's face, crank journals, need to give the machinest my old headgasket to bolt the honeing plate with. And how are you supposed to torque the main stud's nuts to 75lb's when some are to long, for the windage tray? I'm either going to camp out at the machinest's shop for a week or have him assemble it. Seems you are going to have to put the main caps on about three or four times, then assembly it and take it apart again to clearance the rods? Maybe I can talk him into letting me help him, that way I can watch and take pics and stuff!

 

whoa...a normal post...i feel shocked. get to snappin pics

 

Well I still don't have my crank, it should be here tomorrow but then I will have to wait for my keyed hub for balancing. They want about five bills to replace cam bearings, freeze plugs, and also bore, hone. My stuff is in great shape but the faces will still need to be cleaned up, like the deck and heads. Also my windage tray was broke at the bolt next to the water pump. I wonder if that was from flex or something? I'm thinking about adding/modding a main cradle to strengthen everything up?

 

That was an old pic from last year! I was simply showing how I opted to go with "roller tip" rockers instead of full roller!

 

O' also notice the GM hardened guide plates, very important for NSA rockers.

 

Did someone call my name?
whats with all these threads? Great Picture btw.

 

Great thread, lets keep this one going with all your future engine/ build related info from this point forward.

 

i, personally, wouldn't go with the GM hardened guideplates...i would use a trickflow if it were me and those are what i went with. but to each their own i guess

 

After receiving my stroker crank today, I was very impressed. It has an oily tape over each journal and seems to be powder coated on the counter wieghts. Now after measuring the distance from a main to a rod journal, with a special jig I fabricated, there is only about a quarter inch difference between my stock 3.48 and the new 3.75. Does this sound correct while still using a 5.7 rod? I want to be sure before hauling it to the machine shop!